Dongbei means ‘northeast,’ and applies to the remote region between Russia and Korea historically known as Manchuria. Tasked with staving off temperatures that regularly drop below -20°C, the food is characterised by rich flavours and a heavy use of soy, vinegar and garlic, with an emphasis on wheat-based staples, notably dumplings. Portions tend to be big and are generally shared amongst diners.
There are several Dongbei restaurants dotted around Huai Kwang Chinatown, some of which specialise in iron pot stew (tieguodun) whereby meats like pork or goose are stewed together with potatoes in a large cast-iron pot.
Located on the corner of Pracharat Bamphen Road and Ratchadaphisek Road, Old Dongbei Mother’s Dumpling House is one of the first Chinese restaurants you’ll see as you emerge from Huai Khwang MRT station and also one of the best to sample Manchurian fare.
Ordering is made easy for the average farang via a digital menu, which has English translations. Some of the Burmese wait staff also understand Thai and English.
Dumplings are steamed outside in a portico; the leek and egg dumplings (15 per portion) are a best-seller. Another classic dish is disanxian, literally ‘three-treasures of the earth’ – a stir-fried dish comprised of eggplant, potatoes and green bell peppers coated in a savoury garlic-based sauce that embodies the hearty taste of North China.
Time Out Tip: The restaurant stocks Thai and international beers but you can also try Snow, a popular Chinese beer brand.
Chinese Name: 东北老妈饺子馆 Dongbei Laoma Jiaozi Guan