Thai celebrity chef Chumpol Jangprai’s newest fine-dining venture
Celebrity chef Chumpol Jangprai takes the traditional Thai shared eating style of sumrub and given it a fine-dining approach at a new restaurant called R.HAAN.
Taking its name from the Thai word for food, R.HAAN (pronounced “aa-harn,” not “raan” like we originally thought) is set within a charming white house on Thonglor Soi 9. Inside, the elegant dining room combines pastoral murals with black faux brick walls (an unusual sight in Thai restaurant). Antique cabinets and hanging flower garlands—traditional elements essential to a Thai house—populate the space without feeling dated.
The menu includes three sets, each of which consists of 14 dishes made from local produce. Each set starts with small nibbles, followed by soup served in a siphon and four flavorful main dishes (served all together sumrub-style), and ends with dessert and fruits. The first set (sumrub ek, B2,612 per person) shines the spotlight on premium local ingredients. There’s a khanom krok (Thai rice pancake) with flavorful galangal cream and a sprinkling of caviar from a Royal Project plantation, charcoal ash-cooked creamy ant roe with wild star gooseberry, a hearty coconut milk-based relish with swimmer crab meat and roe, and a fiery green curry with beef from Kam Pang Saen in Nakhon Pathom.
If you like your food with lots of heat, you won’t be disappointed in the dishes in the second set (B2,412), which includes a charcoalgrilledpla mor na (climbing perch fish) wrapped in banana leaf, and the chili-loaded wild boar with red curry paste. Standouts in the third set (B2,212) include familiar dishes like stir-fried Japanese-bred beef from Korat with Thai basil leaves, and massaman chicken.
The dishes at R.HAAN nicely balance the contrasting flavors of traditional Thai fare. Though the restaurant is a great place to bring your visiting friends and first-timers who would like to get acquainted with authentic Thai cuisine in an upscale setting, it’s also a place that will appeal to spice-loving locals who know the worth of really good Thai food.
Soi Thonglor 9
|Opening hours:||Open daily 18:00-23:00|