Royal Osha

What is it? Royal Osha's summer menu celebrates khao chae with a composed set built around lighter preparations and premium ingredients sourced from across Thailand. The kitchen's most distinctive call: the jasmine-scented water is made using pH 8.88 mineral water, on the basis that the pH level affects how the jasmine fragrance disperses – and how the rice sits on the palate. It's noticeable. The water has a brightness and clarity that sets the whole thing apart.

Why we love it: The set comes as a proper meal with a beginning and an end. It opens with ma hor – minced pork and prawn in caramelised spices, served in carved pomelo – and closes with a granita of som choon, the traditional mixed-fruit palate-cleanser reimagined as a frozen, crystalline dessert. Considered from start to finish.

Time Out tip: Takeaway pinto sets are available at B2,300 and make an excellent gift. The dine-in set at B1,350 is the better value if you're coming for the full experience.

Royal Osha. Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini. Noon-11pm daily until July 15.