Siam Tea Room
Time Out says
A Thai restaurant-cum-bakery in the recently opened Marriott Marquis Hotel
The building that was the Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel has been entirely refurbished into the sleeker Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park, a new five-star hotel that also promises to be a mecca for food and booze. One of its outlets, Siam Tea Room, looks to invite discerning diners to either feast on authentic Thai grub or nibble on a variety of baked items – or both.
A northern Thai-style, wood-crafted gable graces the restaurant’s facade, one of the few decorating pieces kept from the Imperial Queen’s Park structure. It was only later on that we learned, as revealed by the hotel’s publicist, that the iconic piece was designed by the late legendary artist Thawan Duchanee. Stepping inside, the center of the room is unusually dedicated to a pastry shop selling house-baked goodies. The adjacent wings on both sides are connected to elegant, dark-hued dining rooms that display intricate Thai-style furniture and custom-made cutlery crafted by the villagers of Aranyik, a small town in Ayutthaya.
The name is quite deceptive — the main focus here is not tea. Rather, old-school Thai dishes, whipped up by chef Anukool “Aon” Poolpipat (who previously worked at JW Marriott) dominate the menu. Chef Aon doesn’t tone down the spice and delivers flavorful versions of Thai cuisine that sentimentally reflect the tastes of his childhood. The blue swimmer crab curry (B460) represents southern Thai fare at its best. Spicy with delicate salty notes, it is served with meaty crab chunks, charcoal-grilled giant river prawns, vermicelli and betel nut leaves (the combination dictates that you enjoy it miang-style). The pieces of braised beef cheek in the massamun curry (B395) are tender, perfectly complementing the aromatic and citrusy-sweet paste that also displays a hint of tamarind. The som choon yum (B185) is divinely refreshing. The mix of pomelo, mango and Thai citron, served with pungent crispy fried fish and sweet pork bits, features an interesting interplay of flavors.
An alfresco terrace connected to the dining room offers a great setting for a tea break. Opt for the soft and fluffy walnut brioche laden with aromatic pandan custard (B180) to go along with the hotel’s exclusive Silver Jubilee tea blends (B79).