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The Talat Phlu railway tracks run close enough that you feel the vibration through your plastic stool before you hear the train. Sunee has been operating railway-side for decades, turning khao moo daeng into one of the most atmospheric cheap meals in Bangkok.
The red pork is charcoal-roasted until sweet and tender, then paired with crispy golden pork belly and eggs simmered in five-spice stew until the flavour runs all the way through. The house gravy is what sets it apart: dark red, fragrant with toasted sesame seeds, peanuts and ground five-spice, and generous enough to coat every grain of rice.
Dishes to order: Red pork and crispy pork rice with five-spice egg.
Price range: B40-60
854/8 Soi Thoet Thai 25, Talat Phlu, Thon Buri. Open daily 6am-8:30pm
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