Osaka-born sushi legend Keizo Seki introduced a more delicate approach to the American concept of raw fish and rice rolls when he opened the first Sushi Zo in West LA. The omakase-style eatery earned a Michelin star in 2009. After opening another branch in Los Angeles and one in New York, the much-praised sushi brand is set to raise the bar in Bangkok’s fine-dining scene with the opening of its fourth establishment (and the first Asian outpost) on bustling Wireless Road.
Hidden behind an indistinctive blond wood door in the Plaza Athénée Tower, Sushi Zo’s kitchen is helmed by Toshi Onishi, the former executive chef at the downtown LA branch. Unlike the more popular edomae (traditional Tokyo) style, which highlights the essential flavors of the fish, Sushi Zo focuses on different kinds of ponzu and soy sauce to dress and marinate the fish, and mix two types of vinegars in the rice. The outcome is an interplay of contrasting sweet and sour notes and a well-balanced umami flavor that does not overpower the freshness of the fish, which are flown daily from Japan.
Around 22 pieces of the freshest nigiri and sashimi take turns enticing your palate throughout the two-hour course. Our visit kicked off with an impressive sashimi platter consisting of Hokkaido oysters drenched in tangy-sweet ponzu sauce, scattered pieces of cornetfish (yagara), bluefin tuna and sweet shrimp drizzled and marinated with different condiments. The akami tuna was melt-in-your-mouth delicious, with a slight tanginess coming from the nikiri soy sauce. Ankimo or monk fish liver, served lukewarm, delivered a sumptuous creaminess that belied a drizzling of sweet ponzu. The meal ended with matcha tea and desserts such as a savory-sweet egg roll and fresh fruits.
Prices average around B7000 according to the catch of the day. Reservations, made at least a month in advance, are highly recommended.
