Wattana Panich

There's a brass pot at the entrance here that has been bubbling for more than 40 years. The kitchen never fully extinguishes it, so each morning's broth begins as a continuation of the day before, drawing from decades of accumulated flavour and collagen until the liquid turns dark, rich and almost mahogany. 

That's the foundation for the kuay teow neua, one of Bangkok's great  beef noodle institutions: gelatinous, herbal, deeply savoury and perfumed with Chinese medicinal herbs, star anise and cinnamon. It comes topped with brisket, melt-soft stewed beef, springy meatballs and tendon. Choose your noodle – fine, wide or glass – then settle in at one of the ground-floor steel tables, non-air-conditioned, worn-in and exactly as it should be. The goat stew is the move if you want to go deeper.

Dishes to order: Kuay teow neua (beef noodles), slow-simmered goat stew.

Price range: B80-200

336-338 Ekkamai Rd., Watthana. Open daily 9am-7pm