Need a break from Bangkok? Swap skyscrapers, traffic and noise for bicycles, palm trees and jungle paths – just across the river.
Bangkok can be a tough one. The city moves at high speed, and with the combination of heat, smells, noise and crowds, it can easily get overwhelming. Luckily, I found a pretty good solution: escape it for a day, without actually leaving Bangkok.
Popping my head out from underneath the concrete ‘rocks’ of the city centre, I laid my eyes southeast just across the Chao Phraya River towards Bang Kachao – a place many of us like to call Bangkok’s ‘green lungs’.
Between my studies in town, I needed a little break from the coursework and exams, and quite honestly, Lumphini Park just didn’t cut the mustard. I needed to escape Bangkok’s concrete jungle and replace it with an actual one: palm trees, narrow paths, small ponds and bicycles.
If you’ve not been, or at least not been for a while, much is changing in this green corner of town – and all for the right reasons. After a few hours of cycling through greenery, getting slightly lost and stopping for an iced cappuccino along the way, I was ready to cross the river and keep up with Bangkok’s energy all over again.
So, if the city is starting to feel like a little too much, give yourself a day here. Here’s how I spent mine.
Start with a boat across the Chao Phraya River
Start your day relatively early and take a Grab to either Khlong Toei Pier or Bang Na Pier. Both are relatively small and somewhat tricky to find. From most taxi drop offs, you’ll still need to weave your way through tight community sois to find the river’s edge. Luckily there are signs in English, but you’ll need to keep a good eye out to catch them. From there, small boats cross the Chao Phraya and take you straight to Bang Kachao. Tickets cost B40 for a return journey, plus an extra B10-20 for a bicycle if you prefer to bring your own. Just remember to keep your ticket somewhere safe for the way back.
The boats cross regularly and the journey itself only takes a few minutes, but that's enough to make the city feel surprisingly far away.
Why we love it:
For me, the boat ride is where the whole escape begins. You can still see Bangkok behind you, but your surroundings start changing almost immediately. There’s something quite funny about the fact that one short boat ride can take you from skyscrapers, traffic and noise to dense forest, mangrove villages and bicycles. A lot of bicycles.
Time Out tip:
Start early enough that you don't have to rush your day. And keep some cash on you – you’ll need it for things like the boat and bike rental.
Get yourself a bike
What is it?
Once you’re on the other side, you basically have two options: explore on foot or rent a bike. Personally, the thought of spending the day walking around in the Thai heat didn’t sound particularly appealing, so the bike won without much competition.
Bike rentals are available near Bang Krachao Pier and Pae Jeab Pier, with bikes costing around B100 for the day. If you arrive at Klong Yaychid Pier, keep in mind that there are no bike rentals available there. Do be prepared to part ways with your ID or B1,000 as a deposit, which you’ll get back when you return the bike. Bang Kachao is fairly spread out, so having a bike means you can explore much more without spending the entire day walking around in the heat.
Why we love it?
Convenience aside, getting on the bike was probably what made the day for me. After years living in the Netherlands, it was a true ‘back to the roots’ moment for me, albeit quite a bit hotter.
From the piers, there’s usually just one way to go, and that’s into the lung. The best way to explore is to not plan every stop but maybe have a destination in mind as your midway stopoff.
At one point, I instinctively followed a road without really knowing where I was going and suddenly found myself cycling along these beautiful narrow concrete paths surrounded by palm trees and dense greenery. That was probably when Bang Kachao really clicked for me. You don't necessarily need to know exactly where you're going here. Just ride.
But if following your instincts isn't really your thing, don't worry – there are maps around too.
Time Out tip:
Take your time on the narrow paths. Some are pretty tight, so maybe don't use Bang Kachao as the place to suddenly discover your competitive cycling career.
Cycle through Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park
What is it?
Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden is one of the main green spaces in Bang Kachao, and although very park-like, it’s also a protected environmental space.
Head through the gate and wind your way through the many pathways inside, around the small ponds, trees and tropical plants. You can stop along the way and read about some of the different plant species, or just continue cycling and enjoy the fact that you're surrounded by nature. I think that’s what they call ‘forest bathing’ these days.
Why we love it?
You don't really need to do much here, which is exactly the point. I liked simply riding around the ponds, stopping whenever something caught my attention and taking in how different everything felt.
Once you get sweaty enough from cycling in the heat, take respite at the little cafe inside for a well deserved iced coffee.
Time Out tip:
Go earlier in the day and be sure to bring water (my mistake!). Cycling through a botanical garden is considerably more relaxing before the midday heat kicks in.
Accidentally find a farm of wooden animals
What is it?
Wrong turns are sometimes the best type of accident on a trip like this, and my one ended up at a farm. Get Growing Community Farm has different animals, including goats and chickens, as well as a cafe and a big outdoor play area for kids. But what’s most striking is that wooden ‘animal’ playground that is an art piece in and of itself.
Why we love it?
This is exactly why exploring Bang Kachao without following a strict route is the most fun. One minute you're cycling in between palm trees, and next you're looking at goats.
If you're coming with your family, this is definitely worth adding to the day. Kids can explore the outdoor area – including a huge wooden Trojan horse – while you sit at the cafe and find refreshment.
Time Out tip:
Leave some space in your itinerary for places you didn't plan to find. Getting slightly lost is part of the fun here.
Get Growing Community Farm, 22/2 Bang Kachao. Wed-Sun 9am-5.30pm, playground closes 5pm. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays)
Make your own Thai souvenir
What is it?
If you're an artsy person – or just want to bring home something a little more unique from Thailand – stop by Cave Craft Outdoor Retreat for something a little different.
This small creative spot has a range of different workshops to get involved with, including painting on canvas, making your own bracelet and ceramic painting, to name a few.
Why we love it?
Coming home with something you actually made rather than another souvenir you picked up from a shop is always a good feeling. Whether your final creation turns out to be a masterpiece or something only you can appreciate doesn't really matter. At least it'll have a story behind it.
Time Out tip:
Although part of the adventure around Bang Krachao is about spontaneity, this one’s best booked in advance.
Cave Craft Outdoor Retreat, Soi Wat Rat 12 Rangsan, Bang Kachao. 10am-6pm
Stop for food – obviously
What is it?
By this point, you’re probably going to be hungry. Fortunately, with food on practically every corner, you rarely have to sustain this uncomfortable state for very long. Bang Kachao has got you covered too, with restaurants and small coffee shops hidden among all that green scenery.
The only difficult part is deciding where to stop – which, honestly, is often a nightmare in Thailand because how are we supposed to choose when everything looks so delicious?
Whether you want a proper Thai lunch by the river, some comforting Western carbs or just a quick coffee and toastie before jumping back on your bike, here are a few spots worth making a stop for.
Have a proper Thai lunch at Baan Baan Bang Kra Jao
If you want to go for a traditional Thai lunch, then you might as well find yourself sitting by the river with an amazing view to go with it. For that, check out Baan Baan Bang Kra Jao.
From the front, the restaurant looks a bit like a big treehouse tucked into the greenery, with plenty of space to sit down, slow things down and enjoy the riverside surroundings.
Food-wise, you can indulge in fresh seafood, choose between different variations of papaya salad or simply stick to the never-miss Thai default: pad kra pao. Because really, can you ever go wrong with one?
Expect to spend somewhere around B200 per person for a meal. Maybe slightly more than your usual quick Thai lunch, but once you're sitting there surrounded by tropical greenery and looking out over the river, you'll probably forget about that pretty quickly.
Baan Baan Bang Kra Jao, Soi Phetchahueng 20, Bang Krasop, Bang Kachao. 11am-9pm (Mon-Thu), 8am-10pm (Fri-Sun)
Get your comforting carbs at The Junction
Sometimes, however, no amount of papaya salad is going to fix the very specific need for comforting carbs. In that case, I'd definitely advise stopping at The Junction, a small outdoor restaurant that's conveniently located on the way to or from the pier. The seating area is entirely outside, so maybe have a quick look at the sky before committing – dark clouds and an outdoor pizza aren't necessarily the combination we're going for.
The menu has a wide variety of Italian-style pizzas, but if somehow that's still not enough comfort food for you, there are also fish and chips and plenty of fried finger foods. And yes, you can wash the whole thing down with a craft beer.
Compared with typical Thai food, things are a little pricier here. Be prepared to spend somewhere around B300 per person for a meal. But after cycling all day, I think we can agree you've earned the carbs.
The Junction, Bang Kachao. 11am-8pm (Thu & Sun); 11am-9pm (closed Mon-Wed)
Cool Down at Deep in Bangkrachao
Another spot worth stopping at is Deep In Bangkrachao, a small outdoor café hidden among the greenery of Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park. This one is perfect when the Bangkok heat has finally caught up with you and you need something cold before getting back on the bike. Grab a fresh coconut or another refreshing drink and sit down in the shade for a while.
If you're hungry, there's fried rice and even Italian pasta on the menu. Or, if you only need a quick snack to give you enough energy to explore some more, go for one of their toasties – which, I have to say, pose some pretty serious competition to the beloved 7-Eleven ones.
It's also one of the more budget-friendly stops on the route. Food generally lands somewhere around B40-B70, while drinks are usually around B50.
Then, once you're properly fuelled, you can jump back on your bike and continue exploring. Or, if you're a big fan of a little post-lunch siesta, find yourself a patch of grass and reconnect with nature for a while. No judgement here.
Deep In Bangkrachao, Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden, Bang Kachao. 7.30am-9pm
Eat your way around Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market
And if you're visiting on a weekend, you're even luckier because Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market is worth adding to your food route. Rather than sitting down for one big meal, this is the place to walk around and see what catches your attention. You'll find plenty of local Thai food, snacks, sweets and drinks alongside stalls selling crafts and other products. Personally, I think this is also where the whole ‘how am I supposed to decide what to eat?’-problem becomes considerably worse.
But maybe that's the solution – don't decide. Try a few smaller things instead. The market generally gets going in the morning and starts winding down at around 4pm, so don't leave this stop until the very end of your day. Come hungry, wander around and grab whatever looks good before getting back on your bike.
Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market, 98 Bang Nam Phueng, Bang Kachao. 8am-4pm (Sat-Sun)
Cross back into the city as Bangkok lights up
Eventually it's time to return your bike and make your way back to the pier. Last boats generally make their way back around 6pm, perfect for that sunset-on-a-boat shot for your Instagram feed. As the sun comes down, Bangkok starts lightning up and suddenly the greenery and quiet paths you’ve spent the whole day exploring are behind you. But if you do miss the last boat back, fear not. Bang Krachao is still connected to the ‘mainland’ via the Bhumibol Bridge, so you can easily call a Grab and find a road back home.
For me, that little breath of fresh air did wonders after a stuffy few weeks in the city. I had spent the day cycling between palm trees, riding around ponds, getting sweaty enough to justify an iced cappuccino, following roads without really knowing where they were going and somehow ending up surrounded by farm animals. And a few minutes later, I was back in Bangkok.
So what now? A party? Chinatown by night? Or maybe a Thai massage to keep the relaxation going?
Whatever you feel like, it’s the contrasts that really makes Bangkok special. You can spend your afternoon cycling through greenery and watching giants and then cross one river and find yourself back among skyscrapers, traffic, street food, neon lights and crowds.