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Next came Gu Long Bao, which handles the sweet-versus-savoury question better than anywhere else on the route. It has made Teochew-style steamed buns for more than a century, and you can watch them being folded through the window if you time it right. Sweet potato gives the dough its pale-gold colour and gentle sweetness; fillings run from minced pork and salted egg to black sesame and taro. The order to remember is shumai balanced on a glass of iced Thai milk tea – a savoury dumpling riding above a sweet, creamy drink and somehow making sense from the first sip. Seating is scarce, so grab yours and keep walking.
983 Song Wat Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100. Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm, closed Sunday.