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Review
Opened by the late pizza pioneer Burt Katz—who was also the original owner of Pequod’s—in 1989, this beloved Morton Grove institution is best known for its caramelized, cheese-crusted pan pizzas. Although ownership changed hands in 2017, the pies and overall experience remain largely the same. Stepping inside feels like a trip back in time, with made-to-order pies and a neighborhood atmosphere that has earned the restaurant a devoted following, including the late Anthony Bourdain.
The vibe: A small, quirky dining room that resembles a cozy cabin, complete with tchotchkes lining the walls. The space has seen some updates over the years, but it still leans firmly old school.
The food: You’re here for one thing and one thing only—pan pizza. Katz created and popularized caramelized crusts, which is achieved by letting cheese melt and crisp along the edges of the pan as the pie bakes. Customize yours with toppings such as sausage, garlic, sliced tomatoes and giardiniera. There’s not much else on the menu beyond a handful of appetizers and salads, along with cannoli for dessert.
The drinks: A standard selection of beer and wine makes up the drink menu. It’s simple, but a cold pint always pairs well with pizza.
Time Out tip: Calling ahead for a reservation is highly recommended. If you’re coming from the city, the restaurant is a short walk from the Morton Grove Metra station.
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