What happens when a chef trained at Carbone opens an Italian restaurant in Lincoln Park? I went to the recently debuted Dimmi Dimmi to find out.
This intimate spot on the corner of Armitage and Seminary Avenues took over the former Tarantino’s space. (Word is that a handful of former Tarantino’s employees are now on staff at Dimmi Dimmi.) There are very few reservations available over the next few weeks, but I managed to get one of the two high-tops at the window by walking in just before 5pm on a Tuesday. The bar was already filling up with singles and groups of no more than three. Light chatter and easygoing, nondescript music bounced around the space, which became increasingly louder as the evening went on.
Dimmi Dimmi, from Cornerstone Restaurant Group (Urbanbelly, Michael Jordan’s Steakhouse), is helmed by chef Matt Eckfeld, whose culinary career began here in Chicago. Eckfeld worked under Bill Kim at Urbanbelly and cut his teeth at high-end spots like Carbone and ZZ’s Club in New York. It’s no surprise that for this homecoming, he tackles Italian-American fare from a Chicago perspective.
The menu is robust with all the expected classics: salads, pastas, pizzas, fish and meat dishes. Portions are not massive, but they’re enough for a family-style meal, which seems like the protocol here. Thankfully, the dining tables are spacious enough for this type of dining.
I’m immediately impressed by the Caesar salad, which is crunchy, creamy and delightfully lemon-forward. The light, splashy gravy reminds me of my great-grandmother’s recipe, and it tastes even better with a trio of meatballs engulfed in it. The mozzarella sticks are not to be missed. Dunked in a healthy amount of sauce, each bite is followed by a tiny cascade of bread crumbs.
Based on Eckfeld’s time at Carbone, I naturally had high hopes for the stuffed spicy rigatoni vodka shells, and I was not disappointed. They’re soft and fluffy, and finish with a wonderful little kick thanks to the hint of giardiniera—a nice Chicago twist. Notably, the paper-thin-crusted, tavern-style pizza is also solid. I wouldn’t rank it among the best in the city, but for what it is, it’s definitely worth ordering for the table.
As for drinks, the menu features an impressive cocktail and wine selection, and a dedicated spritz category, which reminds me that I’m, in fact, not at my great-grandmother’s house, but still in the heart of Lincoln Park. Sips like the Calabrian Dirty Martini (chili vodka, vermouth, tomato-olive brine and nduja-gorgonzola stuffed olive) and limoncello spritz are fresh, familiar and balanced. There’s really only one option of each kind of wine by the glass, but the selections are spot on, so it's a non-issue.
Not having cannoli on the dessert menu seemed like a missed opportunity, based on Dimmi Dimmi’s on-the-nose take on Italian cuisine. Nonetheless, the sweets on offer wrap things up on a high note. I appreciate that we’re offered decaf espresso for the affogato.
The buzz around this spot is valid, but I’m curious to see how long the fanfare ensues. I suspect reservations will become more easily available in the next few months. The vibes are good, the crowd is young and energetic, and the warm hospitality makes diners feel at home. Eckfeld and team nailed it—Dimmi Dimmi is a truly solid joint.