We’ve seen plenty of modern Greek restaurants pop up across the city over the past few years, and most of them have garnered major buzz. On the surface, it seems like Chicago’s Greek scene is alive and well, right? Not quite.
I’ll be the first to say it: Chicago doesn't really need new Greek restaurants right now. Greektown, on the other hand, certainly does. If you head to the West Loop neighborhood, you’ll see far too many vacant storefronts and the bones of what were once buzzing culinary hubs. Today, Chicago’s Greektown—one of the last of its kind in the country—is in dire need of a serious revival, and Ithako Estiatorio may be just what it needs.
The opening of Ithaki, located inside the former Parthenon space, marks the return of founder Kosti Demos, whose family ran the beloved institution Costa’s Greek Dining and Bar (a favorite of Barack Obama, Vince Vaughn and Jennifer Aniston) before a fire destroyed the space in 2015, and it was later sold and replaced with a high-rise.
From the moment I walked into the new eatery on Halsted Street, it was clear that this was exactly what the neighborhood needed. Exposed brick walls, wooden beams and light-washed flooring frame the sprawling bar that wraps 15 feet around the front of the 180-seat restaurant. Delicate pink bougainvillea flowers and greenery throughout evoke the breeziness of the Mediterranean coast, and an open kitchen peels back the curtain on the wood-fired hearth and grill in the back. Greek transplant and executive chef Konstantinos Ntalianis helms the kitchen alongside Forte Hospitality’s Culinary Director Saul Ramos.
I’m a creature of habit, so I start, as I always do, with spreads. There’s only one option: a selection of three spreads with veggies and pitas. I opt for the tzatziki, spicy feta and melitzanosalata (eggplant). Spoiler: the pitas were my favorite part of the entire dining experience. They’re gently brushed with olive oil and accented by oregano and a healthy dash of salt. I wish there were an option to order just one spread, or spreads without all the bells and whistles, because it’s a massive serving that’s better fit for a group’s main shared plate than a single or duo’s first course.
As for mains, there’s no shortage of fresh fish flown in straight from the homeland to choose from. Seabass, scallops and by-the-pound selections like yellow tail snapper and branzino are all on the menu, but I go with the classic chicken thigh souvlaki. Served with orzo, grilled baby peppers and pitas, the tender chicken is one of the most flavorful bites I’ve had in a while. The Greek fries are also a hit and perfect to pick at throughout the meal.
Perhaps most impressive is Ithaki’s beverage program. It’s one of the most extensive Greek wine and spirit programs in Chicago, with bottles from Santorini, Crete and Nemea, and Greek spirits like mastiha, ouzo and tsipouro. It’s a Tuesday, so I order the crisp and refreshing sparkling lemonade, one of the four zero-proof options, which also includes the Greek berry drink visinada, a ginger French 75 and N/A hugo spritz.
Ithaki came in with high expectations, and it’s safe to say they were certainly met. With a stunning buildout, solid food and beverage offerings and warm service from start to finish, it’s bound to be not only a popular neighborhood joint but a high-demand destination for dinner-goers in the ultra-competitive West Loop. At this rate, Demos might have another Costa’s on his hands.