As a January chill sweeps through Zagreb, it might be tempting to stay wrapped up in blankets in your hotel room, but what a waste! The Croatian capital offers some rewarding treks for those willing to put on some layers and brave the cold to get their blood pumping. Here are five walks to make your wintertime stay in Zagreb a richer experience.
Bundek
Renovated in 2005, this beautiful park at the gateway to Novi Zagreb is easily accessible and a wonderful introduction to a more contemporary area of the city. A modern-day example of green urban planning, Bundek embodies the vision behind Novi Zagreb’s design. The park is full of greenery, as well as with children’s playgrounds, a lake and plenty of benches, all creating the sense of a liveable and human-oriented city – and only a hop by public transport from the centre.
City centre
Zagreb city centre has its own attractions, thanks to a 19th-century layout interspersed by urban greenery. Start from the train station and work your way up the Lenuci Horseshoe – a U-shaped strip of public squares with parks – until reaching the main square. Zrinjevac is particularly pleasant, with its old-school bandstand. All along the route are shops, benches and cafés to escape into if the cold gets a little too biting.
Maksimir Park
This serene old park is a simple tram ride from the main square, and is a winter favourite. Upon entering – across the road from the Maksimir Stadium – visitors are greeted by a restaurant-cafe which stands before a wide boulevard leading gently upwards towards the depths of the park. The pristine pathways can guide an easy family outing, with Zagreb Zoo waiting at one end, while less-trodden routes can provide some wilder nature and greater seclusion for those looking to escape the noise of the city.
Sava embankment
Along the northern bank of the Sava river is one of the most underrated walking paths in the city. The embankment, when not flooded by the river’s overflow, is a popular spot for locals walking and training their dogs, while the raised trail alongside it provides a tranquil trek. The walk is punctuated by sculptures – all works by notable and prominent Croatian artists – and takes you past Kockica, the Little Cube, a Social-Modernist beauty that once headquartered the Central Committee of the Croatian Communist Party. It now hosts the occasional outdoor concert by its courtyard. The route is perfect for those who like to stroll through quiet nature while also being – at all times – a stone’s throw from the bustle of the city. The nearest tram stop is nearby, reached by cutting across a couple of buildings.
Sljeme
A classic recommendation, and for good reason. The mountain on the outskirts of the city is technically called Medvednica, though locals call it Sljeme, which refers to the highest peak. The mountain has a number of paths, from the very gentle all the way to something challenging for the seasoned mountaineer. Scattered along many of the paths are mountain lodges, offering beautiful little hideaways to rest, eat hearty bean soup and take in the panorama before continuing. The view from the very top is one to remember. As a plus, since it's wintertime, you might want to bring your skiing gear, because the slopes are usually open from mid-December to late March.