If you didn’t have a window seat on your flight over, you might not realise that Zagreb has a river flowing through it. Away from the 19th-century Habsburg architecture of the city centre, the north bank of the Sava is no less picturesque, with cafés, clubs, important architectural landmarks and a sculpture park. We take you on a guided walk from Jadranski Bridge to Slobode Bridge, taking in another crossing with a strange nickname.
The walk
To reach the section where the three main bridges cross the river, it's best to arrive at the westernmost, Jadranski, by trams 14 or 17 from the main square. The tram stop, Savski most, is close to where you can start your walk, the location also ideal for joggers and cyclists. The water control feature with a gravel trail on top was built in 1964, after high rainfall caused the river to break its banks and flood a third of the city.
Hendrix Bridge
Walking east from Jadranski most, the first thing you’ll notice is a large green railway bridge, officially known as Zeleni most, but called Hendrix Bridge by locals. The story goes that one night, an unknown dauber created a now famous piece of graffiti on the top span of the bridge, saying simply 'Hendrix'. Visible for miles around, the name stuck and, despite being painted over several times by the City, it wasn't not long before the graffiti appeared one more.
Sculpture Alley
Soon after the bridge, you’ll begin to notice one of the most distinctive features of the walk: sculptures. The most prominent are a huge pair of upside-down legs sticking out from the ground, created by sculptor Zvonimir Lončarić. Along this section of the river is the largest open-air art gallery in Zagreb, with 12 pieces made by notable Croatian sculptors. Slowly built up over the past 40 years, the project is aimed at showcasing Croatian artists, and further connect the city and its inhabitants to their river.
Kockica
In the distance, you might start to make out a glass cube, Kockica, Croatian for 'little cube'. This significant architectural landmark is a very early example of Modernist International style, and one of the first buildings to have a glass-curtain façade, now standard in office and apartment blocks across the world. The building used to be the headquarters of the Central Committee of the Croatian Communist Party, but now holds the offices of the Croatian maritime, transport and tourism ministries. It also occasionally hosts concerts on the square around its base.
Caffe Bar Domino
Just a block north of Kockica runs one of the most beautiful streets in Zagreb, Aleja Vlade Antolića. In this cosy neighbourhood, with its small houses and pavements lined with birch trees, sits the Caffe Bar Domino. Its patio is the perfect place for an espresso and a good book, or a few beers with friends.
Klub Močvara
Further east approaching Slobode Most, which forms part of Zagreb's central spine all the way up to the main square, you’ll find the Močvara. This legendary club and youth arts centre has long been a mainstay of Zagreb's alternative music scene. Every year on May 7, it hosts Trnjanski Kresovi, a large festival commemorating the day that Zagreb was liberated in World War II. For its regular concert schedule, check out the website.