Every year on November 1, thousands gather at Mirogoj cemetery in Zagreb for All Saints' Day. People travel from all over Croatia to lay flowers and lanterns on the graves of loved ones and famous Croatian figures, transforming the vast cemetery grounds into a field of shimmering lights.
The cemetery’s late 19th-century arcade wall is stunning and one of the city’s best kept secrets, only infrequently seen by visitors to the city. The ivy-covered walls were built when Zagreb was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and are the resting place of history-bestriding politicians, war heroes, legendary athletes and honoured artists. After leaving the cemetery, you might then beat the late autumn chill with a bag of roasted chestnuts, maroni.
The experience is solemn but not dour. The crowds and the lights provoke reflection on those who came before us, and stir a gratitude for our own lives.
Entrance is always free.
How to get there: Mirogoj can be reached from the centre of Zagreb by tram 14, stopping at Radić šetalište followed by a short walk uphill, or buses 106, 203 or 226.