Stara Vura

Located in an artfully-lit brick cellar beneath the exhibition halls of the City Museum, Stara Vura ('The Old Clock') has the semi-hidden air of a select retreat. With tinkling piano music, attentive service and a starched-napkin approach to laying the table, it’s the ideal venue for a leisurely and intimate meal. It’s a slightly different experience in spring and summer, when diners move out into a cobbled courtyard filled with potted Mediterranean plants. The kitchen specializes in high-level Croatian food at reasonable cost: porky Croatian classics like punjeni lungić (tenderloin filled with cheese and pršut) weigh in at 85Kn. Adriatic seafood takes up a good page of the menu; they’ll bring fresh fish out on a tray for you to peruse the daily offering. All in all it’s a fine venue for a relaxed three-courser accompanied by a bottle or two of good local wine.