Slightly off the main Korčula-Vela Luka road in the hillside village of Pupnat, is this popular, family-run find. Ingredients are grown on-site. The pršut ham comes from the smokehouse behind the terrace; the pastas (such as the goats’ cheese ravioli) are hand-rolled and sun-dried, and the lamb and pork are cooked under the peka lid. The pašticada, a slow-cooked roast swimming in plums and sweet wine, is excellent.
The village of Pupnat is a typical wine and vegetable-growing community set at the side of a small but fertile plain. To the south of Pupnat at the bottom of a steep slope is Pupnatska Luka, once the village’s port. Accessible via a narrow windy road, Pupnatska Luka is today a beautiful crescent of fine pebble, and is arguably the best of Korčula’s south-coast beaches. There are a couple of café-cum-snack bars at the back of the beach, screened by outsized cacti. The only problem with Pupnatska Luka is the lack of parking spaces, and the constant danger that you might meet a large and cumbersome car coming in the opposite direction on the way up or down.