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[title]Autumn is a wonderful time to be in Zagreb. Daytimes are often bright, exposing the grandeur of the city's trees and parks, which offer a spectacular array of greens, browns, yellow and bronze. In the evenings it's best to be indoors and there's no place warmer than a frenetic nightclub or a buzzing concert venue. Zagreb's nightlife flourishes in November, and there really is something for everyone this month, including the heartfelt traditional Bosnian music Sevdah, internationally recognised house and techno DJs, the former Smiths guitarist Johnny Marr, experimental noise outfit and Neurosis offshoot Mirrors for Psychic Warfare, pivotal grunge-era survivors Mudhoney and local legend Darko Rundek.