Stroll along the buzzy, cobbled streets of Bairro Alto towards The Lumiares and you’ll already be ticking off your Lisbon must-see list. One of the most popular viewpoints in the city, Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, is right across the road, with the historic, sunny-yellow Glória funicular clattering up the steep hill just beside it. Step inside, and the colourful chaos of the city gives way to monochrome calm, with gleaming geometric tiles underfoot and a sculptural brass chandelier above that catches the light. A grand staircase nods to the building’s 18th-century past as a count’s palace, now overlooked by Portuguese muralist Jacqueline de Montaigne’s striking portraits. Oozing gilded glamour, this five-star hotel is a homage to Lisbon’s colours, patterns and golden light – but manages to still feel personal and welcoming.
Why stay at The Lumiares?
If you want to be slap-bang in the thick of Lisbon life, The Lumiares has one of the city’s best addresses. Even with Bairro Alto on its doorstep, it’s surprisingly calm – and its 47 apartment-style suites give it a home-away-from-home feel. The Lumiares is all about keeping things local too, having worked with Portuguese designers and artists on almost every item of furniture, artwork and textiles in the building from Vista Alegre tableware to abstract photography by artist Vasco Celio.
But the best part? What’s waiting upstairs on the fifth floor. If you’ve done your Lisbon rooftop bar research, it’s likely that you have already heard of Lumi Rooftop – it regularly tops the lists as one of the best rooftops in town (and in a city as hilly as Lisbon, there’s some stiff competition). Arrive as the sun is setting and be greeted by sweeping, pastel-hued views of terracotta rooftops bathed in a golden light. To the left: São Jorge Castle and Igreja da Graça punctuate the skyline; straight ahead: vistas across the Tagus estuary and the towering Cristo Rei statue in the distance.
What are the rooms like at The Lumiares?
Rather than typical hotel rooms – here it’s all about apartment living, from self-contained studios right up to the top-floor penthouse. Décor is minimalist, with pops of colour and personality from the bohemian tapestry cushions and geometric carpets. Not ‘wow’, but not sterile either. If you want to dine in, you’ll find everything you need in the fully-kitted-out kitchenettes. A SMEG fridge comes fully stocked with a chilled bottle of Douro white, craft beers and soft drinks – all complimentary for the first round. A nice touch.
Bathrooms come with a handy array of mini kits for anything you might have forgotten and luxury Claus Porto toiletries (one of our favourite shops in the city). Given that the cobbled chaos of the bar-lined streets of Bairro Alto is around the corner, I was pleasantly surprised by the solid soundproofing. But if you did happen to be a light sleeper, complimentary sleep kits are just a phone call away.
What to eat and drink at The Lumiares?
Head straight up to Lumi Rooftop for modern, Portuguese fare and stylish cocktails. After seeing a flyer for the cocktail of the month in the lift up, I knew exactly what I would be ordering – Tropical Storm: pineapple juice, gin, coriander puree and jalapeño, which cut through the sweetness for a fresh and fiery combo.
The all-day menu from Chef João Silva offers up Portuguese classics like roasted codfish ‘à Brás’ (shredded salted cod and matchstick-sized potatoes), as well as universal crowd-pleasers like spicy chicken wings. Tuna ceviche and spicy garlic king prawns were the dishes that caught my eye and when they arrived I was glad I hadn’t eaten too many snacks before. The portions were generous. The king prawns, sautéed in garlic and herbs, were tasty, but didn’t quite match the depth of flavour that I found in the local Portuguese tascas of my trip (and I missed the basket of buttery bread to soak up the sauce). The tuna ceviche was more of a hit: melt-in-the-mouth fresh, with avocado and a few crisps atop. I finished the meal with a baked cheesecake with strawberry coulis, a suitably delicious finale.
Breakfast was also served at Lumi, which was a pretty darn perfect way to start the day. Alongside à la carte options, a continental buffet of local cheese, meats and pastries are on offer, including some delicious Portuguese sweet treats (pastéis de nata included, of course). You can also order barista-made coffees, if filter coffee isn’t your thing. I couldn’t decide between scrambled eggs and pancakes (a common brunch conundrum of mine), so I ordered both. No regrets.
What is the service like at The Lumiares?
No complaints on this front. I was greeted with a smile on entry and a blissfully cool towel (very welcome in the heat of summer) and from that moment on the service was nothing but five-star. One thing I particularly liked was the ability to WhatsApp the concierge, which is really handy when you have questions or need to adjust reservations when out and about. Replies were impressively quick.
What is the spa and gym like at The Lumiares?
After a day strolling up and down the calf-burning hills of the city, the subterranean spa was a very welcome sight. Though compact, it’s sleek, cosily-lit and makes good use of the space, with several treatment rooms, gym, steam room and sauna. Pre-booking is essential, but the upside is that you can have the facilities all to yourself. I peeked my head into the small gym, which had the essentials – if you really feel the need to work off the pastéis de nata. Instead I made a beeline for the steam room, a far better remedy for my weary legs.
During my stay, I also opted to try the hotel’s seasonal special spa treatment: the Summer Cooler, which sounded like the perfect antidote to a toasty summer day. My softly-spoken therapist Mariana began by exfoliating my aching feet with Himalayan salt, before easing away the knots with a full body hydrating massage using aloe vera shea butter. After my treatment (which unfortunately did eventually have to end), I moved to the sofa to revive myself with some lemongrass tea and a few ginger biscuits, already contemplating booking another.
What’s the area like around The Lumiares?
Right across from the hotel, the lively Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is the perfect spot to get your bearings – grab a cold Sagres and catch some live music while taking in the view. A short five-minute walk (uphill!) takes you into Príncipe Real, one of the city’s fanciest neighbourhoods, where wine bars, independent boutiques and the oasis-like Jardim Príncipe Real await. Come nightfall, you’re also just steps from the shenanigans of Bairro Alto’s bar-packed lanes (the age skews younger here), as well as the more upmarket Chiado – the epicentre of Lisbon’s shopping and dining scene.
Why you should you book a stay at The Lumiares
It’s rare that a hotel combines the polish of high-end luxury with the freedom of truly having your own space. The apartment-style set-up makes it ideal for longer stays too – exactly the sort of place you’ll want to return to after a day exploring all that the city has to offer. And if you just want to while away the day on the rooftop, that’s fine too. After all, it’s a must-visit in its own right.
DETAILS
Address: 142 Rua do Diário de Notícias 1200-146 Lisboa
Price per night: Low season from €220, high season from €280
Closest transport: Restauradores Metro Station or Lisboa–Rossio Train Station under 10 minutes by taxi; 30 minutes by taxi from the airport.