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At Catarina Gonçalves’ restaurant (who was already known for opening the vegetarian venue Nomalism in Campo de Ourique, now defunct), you will find beetroot or lentil hamburgers (€7.50), bifanas made with thyme and lemon seitan (€5) and toasties made with bolo do caco (Madeira’s famous bread) and vegan cheese (€6). Don’t leave before biting into the raw dried fruit tart, which is sugar-free and sweetened with dates and agave syrup (€4.50).