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Don’t miss Senhor Horácio’s little restaurant, which is located in the heart of Troino, an old fishing neighbourhood in Setúbal, and makes use of the community grill in Largo da Fonte Nova. Remember the following fish names in Portuguese: salmonete (red mullet), massacote (small red seabream), alcorraz (white seabream) and carapau manteiga (horse mackerel). If you see any of them there, order away. Get the house white wine (it’s local and it comes in a jug) and a grilled pepper salad. You’ll be seated on plastic chairs outdoors, you’ll eat over a paper tablecloth, you’ll realise that grilling fish is an art, you’ll pay between 10€ and 15€ and you’ll finish your food very quickly.