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Nueva brings a new modern Mexican cantina to Venice

The city’s latest is a collab between chefs Vartan Abgaryan and Mesraim Llanez.

Written by
Stephanie Breijo
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There’s a new colorful, plant-dotted patio at the edge of Abbot Kinney, with dishes just as vibrantly hued as the setting. Open since Tuesday on the border of Venice and Marina del Rey, Nueva is serving wood-grilled fish under mole rojo, uni-and-hamachi ceviche with local citrus and pops of color from petals and Fresno chilies, elote with chipotle butter, and plenty of other modern Mexican fare.

That menu comes by way of two longtime L.A. chefs, one from just down the street: Vartan Abgaryan of the nearby Yours Truly (one of our best new restaurants of 2019), and Mesraim Llanez, a vet of Guerrilla Tacos, Lucques, Everson Royce Bar and Cliff’s Edge, where he met Abgaryan. Together they’re building an approachable rundown of tacos, ceviches, large plates and snacks that prioritize Mexican and Californian flavor, with a little Middle Eastern influence here and there.

At brunch service, which launches Friday, you can expect the likes of cast-iron pancakes with queso fresco and house-made jam, chorizo burgers with fried halloumi, avocado tostadas with za’atar and soft-boiled egg, coconut yogurt with house-made granola, and a vegan scramble sporting organic, local tofu and papas bravas.

Nueva Venice
Photograph: Courtesy Nueva/Rob Stark Photography

Not to be outdone, former NoMad bar manager Adam Fournier is helming a cocktail program that involves plenty of house-made pickles, shrubs and clarified fruits to complement the restaurant’s sizable mezcal and tequila stock, while still keeping things playful with a range of frozen margaritas and house-made sodas.

Inside, the restaurant is split between a glowing bar and banquette seating, but in light of Governor Gavin Newsom’s order to close indoor dining for the time being, you’re more likely to experience Nueva’s socially distanced 50-seat patio first. The restaurant also offers takeout, if you’d rather nosh on those nachos and tempura sea bass tacos at home. 

For those curious about the space itself, Nueva slid into the former home of Sunny Spot, situated just in front of the bar The Little Friend—which is co-owned by Jared Meisler, who’s opening Nueva along with David and Patti Reiss: a nightlife powerhouse behind the Brig, Yours Truly and Vito’s, as well as the now-shuttered Sunny Spot. In total, the trio’s joint venture boasts around 160 seats and midcentury modern decor inspiration—which we’ll all get to fully enjoy once indoor dining starts back up again eventually.

Take a peek at what you can expect at Nueva, below, then drop by for takeout or a meal on that patio.

Nueva
Pork belly tacoPhotograph: Courtesy Nueva/Rob Stark Photography
Nueva restaurant Venice
Photograph: Courtesy Nueva/Rob Stark Photography
Nueva restaurant
Avocado chopped saladPhotograph: Courtesy Nueva/Rob Stark Photography
Nueva restaurant Venice
Photograph: Courtesy Nueva/Rob Stark Photography
Nueva Venice
Uni and hamachiPhotograph: Courtesy Nueva/Rob Stark Photography
Nueva restaurant Venice
Photograph: Courtesy Nueva/Rob Stark Photography

Nueva is now open in Venice at 822 Washington Blvd with hours of 3:30pm to midnight Monday to Wednesday; 3:30pm to 2am Thursday; 11:30am to 2am Friday; and 10:30am to 2am Saturday and Sunday.

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