Little Beast

Restaurants, American creative Eagle Rock
2 out of 5 stars
5 out of 5 stars
(3user reviews)
 (Photograph: Jakob N. Layman)
1/10
Photograph: Jakob N. LaymanSweet corn risotto with crab at Little Beast
 (Photograph: Jakob N. Layman)
2/10
Photograph: Jakob N. LaymanGrilled romaine BLT at Little Beast
 (Photograph: Jakob N. Layman)
3/10
Photograph: Jakob N. LaymanPan-roasted organic chicken at Little Beast
 (Photograph: Jakob N. Layman)
4/10
Photograph: Jakob N. LaymanSautéed Scottish salmon at Little Beast
 (Photograph: Jakob N. Layman)
5/10
Photograph: Jakob N. LaymanFallen Apple pastry at Little Beast
 (Photograph: Misha Gravenor)
6/10
Photograph: Misha GravenorLittle Beast
 (Photograph: Misha Gravenor)
7/10
Photograph: Misha GravenorLittle Beast
 (Photograph: Misha Gravenor)
8/10
Photograph: Misha GravenorLittle Beast
 (Photograph: Misha Gravenor)
9/10
Photograph: Misha GravenorLittle Beast
 (Photograph: Misha Gravenor)
10/10
Photograph: Misha GravenorLittle Beast

Eagle Rock gets a serious, destination restaurant with the arrival of Little Beast. Husband-wife team chef Sean Lowenthal (Chateau Marmont) and Deborah Schwartz-Lowenthal bring a New American menu of seasonal, local ingredients. The small menu of small plates and half a dozen entrées highlight the season: Peaches are cubed and plated with burrata cheese, arugula and balsamic vinegar ($12), while corn is mixed into a risotto of Meyer lemon, Pecorino Romano cheese and supplemental Dungeness crab ($18). But while the neighborhood is embracing its first chef-driven, family-friendly neighborhood haunt—there’s even a kids menu of cheddar-filled quesadilla ($4) and a pared-down version of the roast chicken and burger—the food falls short on execution to put on this Eastside eatery on LA's culinary map.

The risotto lacks balance and finesse: A generous portion of Arborio rice has too much bitter lemon and is just plain dull. Pan-roast chicken ($19) was an improvement with well-seasoned, crispy skinned Jidori dark meat atop bland and lackluster asparagus and corn-cucumber mix. A deconstructed BLT salad ($10) was better in theory: A halved head of romaine grilled and added upon with cuts of applewood smoked bacon, sliced heirloom tomatoes, cubed and toasted croutons and creamy dressing that tasted like Thousand Island. Duck liver mousse ($10) was a disaster with a sloppy composition of potted paté that taste too bile-y with chunky apple compote and dry baguette slices to spread on.

But where the kitchen falls short, the restaurant makes up for in its ambiance. The restored California craftsman bungalow sets the stage for an intimate, locals-only vibe and alfresco dining on the patio.

 

Vitals

Eat this: Dessert is the highlight. Try Belgian chocolate pudding topped with Chantilly cream, shaved chocolate and Maldon sea salt ($6): While less smooth and refined than pot de crème, the rustic dessert highlights the undeniable pairing of chocolate and whipped cream, elevated with salt. Pair it with a glass of Port ($9) or cup of French press Stumptown coffee ($6).

Drink this: The small, well-edited wine list features six to twelve-dollar wines by the glass including biodynamic, organic and natural selections. Half a dozen local brews are on offer by the bottle and can, as is a rotating draft pick. 

Where to sit: The Craftsman home features ample outdoor seating. Opt for a seat on the front patio and watch the traffic off Colorado Boulevard or sit under canopied lights on the side patio.

By: Katherine Kims

Posted:

Venue name: Little Beast
Contact:
Address: 1496 Colorado Blvd
Los Angeles
90041
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 5-10pm
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Average User Rating

5 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:3
  • 4 star:0
  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|3
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tastemaker

Delicious! Came here for a date night with my girlfriend recently and had a wonderful experience. The shaved brocolli salad & the cavatelli were the highlights of the meal, but we also had a seasonal wine cocktail that was really light and refreshing. The craftsman house it is in makes for a really cozy and comfortable vibe, and the back patio is well lit and a lovely place to sit. If I had one complaint, it would be that the portion sizes were a bit small. But we really enjoyed ourselves - great spot to have a nice night with a loved one or friend.


One of my top 3 restaurants in Southern California. Every dish is soulful and savory. Monday's Southern Fried Chicken is a must! Excellent happy hour and wine list. Lovely ambiance for a date or even for your kids.