Maccheroni Republic

When you imagine an ideal old-school Italian dining experience, Maccheroni Republic is probably what you’re jonesing for. Since 2012, the restaurant has quietly been serving some of the best pasta in Los Angeles. Started by Jean Louis DeMori and chef Antonio Tommasi, who also founded Beverly Grove’s Locanda Veneta (which they’ve since sold to new owners), Maccheroni Republic first drew rave reviews from the late food critic Jonathan Gold in 2014. Since then, the roaring hype has died down to a mere whisper, but the plates of maccheroni stellari (star-shaped extruded pasta in a spicy tomato sauce) and bianci e neri (black and white spaghetti with shrimp, mushroom and pancetta in a creamy bisque) are delicious as ever. Tommasi also offers unique regional favorites like tortini di gamberi—a deep-fried shrimp cake—and a classic homey minestrone. Plus, the secluded, string-lit outdoor patio space also feels a world away from the often sketchy streets of the Historic Core.