Executive chef Lee Hefter leads Spago's kitchen, where influences include California, Asia, Italy and France. Clean lines and blocks of black and white define Spago's modernized dining room, whose makeunder includes ditching garish dressings in favor of minimalist dishware and contemporary, if a bit incongruous, wall art. A California tasting menu is fun and only available for the whole table ($145 per person, maximum six guests), but if you opt to order à la carte, you'll find dishes like pan-seared cod with a ragout of shelling beans, or handmade agnolotti with butternut and kabocha squash. Dine on the charming, semi-covered outdoor patio, with its modern, oversized fireplaces and strategically positioned olive trees. Despite built-in heaters, it does get chilly on colder nights, so opt for an indoor table toward the glassed-in exhibition kitchen.