Union

Nestled into a little side street, Union isn’t exactly the type of place I recommend driving across town for, but the charming atmosphere and excellent, market-driven cooking still translate into one seriously excellent Italian restaurant option for anyone living in Northeast L.A. Head chef Sandro Hernandez sources much of the produce from the farmers’ market, from roast potatoes made with Weiser Farms’ famous Magic Myrnas to Tamai Farms broccolini served with sundried tomato crema, pickled sungolds and a dusting of Parmesan. The handmade pastas—I especially like the squid ink lumache and classic spaghetti and meatballs—barely manage to outshine the likes of fra diavolo half chicken and herb-crusted lamb. For dessert, Hernandez keeps it simple with classics like olive oil cake, panna cotta and a hazelnut torte. The ingredients are local, the wine is flowing and the vibe is always relaxed and centered on the food—and how could it not be, with such delicious cuisine?