This shrine to the brine boasts an impressive display of all
things piscatory. Don’t worry if your expertise is limited to tuna on rye; the staff is happy to tell you all about the 25 varieties of fresh oysters or wax rhapsodic about chef-owner Jeremy Marshall’s sea urchin in citrus-soy dressing, cod with wild-mushroom fondue and Maine-lobster salad. The dining room is bland and slightly dated, but that just gives the food its rightful place in the limelight.