Bâtard

Drew Nieporent is back—well, sort of. It’s not like the revered restaurateur ever really left, operating celebrated spots like Nobu and Tribeca Grill since the ‘90s. But this latest venture returns to the hallowed halls of his restaurant past, the space that held his formative debut, Montrachet, until 2006, and most recently was home to his French fine-dining stunner, Corton, famously helmed by punctilious, Michelin-starred chef Paul Liebrandt. Following Liebrandt's abrupt departure from Corton for the Elm in August 2013, Drew Nieporent has changed gears, enlisting chef Markus Glocker (Gordon Ramsay at the London) to infuse a multicourse European tasting menu with touches of his native Austria: roasted beets "Linzer" with caramelized hazelnuts and red currants; baked turbot with egg yolk and salted pumpkinseeds; and a rabbit "flavors of bouillabaisse" with saffron ravioli and sauce rouille. France dominates the wine list, with a solid lineup of white varietals from the restaurant's namesake, Bâtard-Montrachet.