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 (Photograph: Virginia Rollison)1/5
Photograph: Virginia Rollison803.fd_.ediandthewolf09Whole roasted duck at Edi & the WolfCall at least 24 hours ahead to reserve this off-menu duck dish, serving up to four. Austrian natives Eduard Frauneder and Wolfgang Ban rub the roasted bird with paprika and stuff it with orange and apple quarters, celery, garlic cloves and rosemary. The burnished beauty is presented whole at the table before being brought back to the kitchen for carving. Earthy accompaniments complement the supple meat: creamy celery-root puree, tender brussels sprouts, wild mushrooms and slivers of Granny Smith apples. 102 Ave C between 6th and 7th Sts (212-598-1040). $100.---MU
 (Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson)2/5
Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelsonlanikai06Snapper luau platter at Lani Kai Kick off your own luau at the lovely, orchid-adorned Lani Kai, where owner and Hawaii native Julie Reiner channels her roots with fresh tropical drinks and festive island fare. The red snapper, which serves two or three, is a real showstopper: A whole tempura-fried fish arrives at the table upright, as if caught midswim, on a bed of julienned beet, daikon and carrot, along with crunchy lotus-root chips. Four sauces accompany the crispy fish: a creamy chili aioli, sweet-and-sour grilled-pineapple puree, a tart yuzu ponzu and spicy sambal oelek. You can keep the party going with one of the "large-profile beverages," like the Gold Coast Punch, which combines aged rum, pineapple, lime, allspice and champagne ($65), and serves four to six people. 525 Broome St between Sullivan and Thompson Sts (646-596-8778). $59.---MU
 (Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson)3/5
Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson803.fd_.fedorafeastsBig pork chop at FedoraA colossal pork chop, thick as a bodice-ripper and just as juicy, is only part of the package in this mammoth entre deux. The mighty chop comes split lengthwise in an oval crock with a nutmeg-spiced meatball--and--pig's foot stew and hillocks of bracing pickled veggies. Carve off slivers of swine and fold them---like a kooky taco with pickles and a spoonful of the rich, meaty stew---into one of the crumbly scallion pancakes served alongside. 239 W 4th St between Charles and W 10th Sts (646-449-9336). $58.---JR
 (Photograph: Jolie Ruben)4/5
Photograph: Jolie Rubenmwells08Salmon coulibiac at M. WellsSeven months after opening, this cultish Quebecois-American diner has finally launched dinner service. The new menu boasts a few large-format dishes, including a heaving 2.4-pound lamb-and-beef burger and a Peking duck, but chef Hugue Dufour's update of the magnificent French fish pie coulibiac is a true feat. He slathers a side of salmon with dill pesto, wraps it in buttery puff pastry and bakes it until the crust is golden and the fish fork-tender. Thick slices of the flaky loaf---enough for three or four diners---are served over applewood-smoked crme frache with bright, verdant drizzles of chive oil, salmon roe, fried pickle slices and tart lemon segments, which cut through the fat with refreshing bursts of acid and salt. 21-17 49th Ave at 21st St, Long Island City, Queens (718-425-6917). $75.---MU
 (Photograph: Jolie Ruben)5/5
Photograph: Jolie Rubenvandaag21Stuffed guinea hen at VandaagChef Phillip Kirschen-Clark elevates the dark-meat guinea hen with a triple whammy of aromatic citrus in this stunning dish for two. The glistening, bergamot-orange--glazed bird arrives whole and deboned, flanked by sweet roasted turnips on one side and their bitter greens on the other, in a cast-iron roasting dish. Plunge your fork into the crackling, crisp skin, which gives way to layers of gamey meat and a rich, nutty stuffing of barley, giblets and bittersweet bergamot preserves, all dusted with the fruit's fragrant zest. Addictive sticky wings---confited in duck fat, deep-fried and slicked with the same citrus glaze---come on a side plate. 103 Second Ave at 6th St (212-253-0470). $50.---MU



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