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Gupshup

Restaurants, Indian Gramercy
Recommended
4 out of 5 stars
Gupshup
1/5
Photograph: Teddy Wolff
Gupshup
2/5
Photograph: Teddy Wolff
Gupshup
3/5
Photograph: Teddy Wolff
Gupshup
4/5
Photograph: Teddy Wolff
Gupshup
5/5
Photograph: Teddy Wolff

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

In New York City, nearby blocks can feel worlds apart. Case in point: “Curry Hill,” a traditional Indian food stronghold in Murray Hill, lies just north of Gupshup, a confident newcomer that is not only world’s apart from its mom- and-pop neighbors’ ambiance but also incorporates an international eclecticism right into its cooking. For example, you can flavor cracker-thin bread with some foie gras butter or wrap lentil chilla “pancakes” around pulled jackfruit, taco- style.

As an alum of New Delhi’s posh Indian Accent, chef Gurpreet Singh is evermore relaxed in his bi-level digs, which resemble a colorful mansion of an imagined wealthy family in the 1970s Bombay. Here, black-and-white checkered floors and green velvet-cushioned booths evoke nostalgia, while a vibrant, bright-pink mural of a woman posing in a headdress and high heels brings a zeitgeist energy.

On this fashionable stage, Singh ventures deep into fusion territory with small plates—think fluffy, street-style puchkas nestled in a curd-rice mousse flecked with nubs of lightly smoked salmon or a Mumbai-meets–Mexico City guacamole served with strips of spiced chips baked with chickpea flour. On the bread front, try a fragrant, caraway-seasoned kulcha: Filled with wilted garlic-coriander spinach, it can be spread with tomato-fennel chutney and fresh mint burrata and eaten like toast. Among the best of these freewheeling experiments is a Keralan-inspired rasam ramen that tangles wavy noodles with cubes of paneer cheese and wild mushrooms in a tomato- curry broth.

Fewer liberties are taken with the main dishes, which are gently tweaked to appease both Indian-food purists and fans of the city’s modern Indian restaurant boom (Bombay Bread Bar, Baar Baar). A rack of dry-spiced, fall-off-the-bone lamb is undeniably traditional, amping up the meat’s savory qualities with cumin and cardamom, though the $38 price tag belies its smaller portion size. Meanwhile, an equally simple grilled lobster tail, presented under the cleaned-out shell, gets its succulent meat soaked in a sweet, rich coconut-milk moilee sauce.

At times, the clash of old and new can feel like sensory overload (a blaring EDM soundtrack accompanies the nose-clearing spices), but for all of the twists and turns, you’ll still enjoy one age-old tradition of eating delicious Indian food: Using naan to mop up every last bite.

By: Dan Q Dao

Posted:

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Address: 115 E 18th St
New York
10003
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