Restaurants, Japanese Soho
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 (Photo: Caroline Voagen Nelson)
Photo: Caroline Voagen Nelson

Duck salad at Hirohisa

 (Photo: Caroline Voagen Nelson)
Photo: Caroline Voagen Nelson

Amber jack with sansho at Hirohisa

 (Photo: Caroline Voagen Nelson)
Photo: Caroline Voagen Nelson

Corn chawanmushi at Hirohisa

 (Photo: Caroline Voagen Nelson)
Photo: Caroline Voagen Nelson


Goodbye, Kyoto; hello, Fukui—Hirohisa Hayashi, former owner of small-plates spot Hibino, culls inspiration farther up the Japanese coast for this eponymous Soho eatery. There's nary a sushi roll in sight—instead, find market-driven regional specialties from Hayashi's native town, Echizen, available à la carte or in multicourse omakase: roasted miso-marinated lamb; tofu-skin-wrapped shrimp cakes with shishito; and steamed koshihikari rice imported from Ikeda, Fukui. Styled as a traditional kappo, small plates are dispatched directly from the blond-wood chef's counter, giving a bull's-eye view as Hayashi tops sesame tofu with sea urchin and soy dashi à la minute. "Kanpai!"-ready beverage options consist of beer (Sapporo, Kunda) and sake, including Hirohisa's own house-made plum rice wine, a blend of Tokusen, Denshin and Kokuryu sake aged for more than two years. The minimalist 20-seat space—designed by Super Paprika, the firm behind Momofuku and Ippudo—features exposed brick, washi-papered service trays and whimsical ceramic tableware.


Venue name: Hirohisa
Address: 73 Thompson St
New York
Cross street: between Broome and Spring Sts
Opening hours: Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm
Transport: Subway: C, E to Spring St; 1 to Canal St
Price: Average entrée: $30. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
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