Kajitsu

Restaurants, Japanese Murray Hill
Recommended
4 out of 5 stars
3 out of 5 stars
(3user reviews)
 (Photograph: Filip Wolak)
1/6
Photograph: Filip WolakEggplant with truffles at Kajitsu
 (Photograph: Filip Wolak)
2/6
Photograph: Filip WolakSpring gelée at Kajitsu
 (Photograph: Filip Wolak)
3/6
Photograph: Filip WolakCabbage, bell pepper and potato at Kajitsu
 (Photograph: Filip Wolak)
4/6
Photograph: Filip WolakSoba at Kajitsu
 (Photograph: Filip Wolak)
5/6
Photograph: Filip WolakMugwort tofu at Kajitsu
 (Photograph: Filip Wolak)
6/6
Photograph: Filip WolakKajitsu

This artful vegetarian restaurant—which moved from its original East Village basement digs to a Murray Hill townhouse—is likely the city’s most accomplished practitioner of shojin cuisine, a type of hyperseasonal vegan cooking that originated in Zen Buddhism, and is at the foundation of the Japanese kaiseki tradition. For those seeking meat, the closest you’ll get are the seafood and eggs served at lunch in Kajitsu’s sister restaurant, Kokage, downstairs.

Upstairs are Kajitsu's main dining room—small and bare, with large windows, straight lines and light finished wood—and an eight-seat chef’s counter. You choose from three ever-changing menus—four courses, eight or a counter-only omakase—each paired with sake if you like.

These meals unfold at a languid pace—the longer menus creeping toward three hours—but the attentive service keeps fidgeting at bay. There’s no music—jarring at first—and the patrons at the counter are hushed, a refreshing quiet that’s punctuated by the incongruous clacking of chef Ryota Ueshima’s wooden clogs.

Ingredients change by the month, but recent preparations include harusame noodles soup with shitake, pine nuts and spring vegetables. Then there are plates like the spring gelée, an orb of vegetable-stock jelly—studded with okra and mountain yam—that registers bland until you taste it with the bright, tart “noodles,” made from jellied vinegar and soy, that snap it into focus. These symbiotic relationships are everywhere: in the soft, house-made soba, shored up by chewy shreds of fried tofu, and wisps of seaweed in the dipping sauce; and in the final savory course, a bowl of rice in mushroom broth, bolstered into a cozy porridge as you stir in viscous yuba (tofu skin), swatches of nori and dabs of wasabi.

By: Daniel S. Meyer

Posted:

Venue name: Kajitsu
Contact:
Address: 125 E 39th St
New York
10016
Cross street: between Park and Lexington Aves
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 11:45am-1:45pm, 5:30-9:15pm; Sun 5:30-9:15pm
Transport: Subway: 42nd St S, 4, 5, 6, 7 to 42nd St–Grand Central
Price: Prix-fixe tasting menus: $55-125. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
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Static map showing venue location

Average User Rating

3.3 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:0
  • 4 star:1
  • 3 star:2
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|3
1 person listening

First time here and definitely was a very interesting experience.  They have 4 course dinner and 8 course dinner.  I chose 4 course dinner plus dessert.  Unfortunately, even after all that food, I was still hungry and I just left because I was not happy with the tiny portions of food.  So if you are really hungry, I would recommend to go with 8 course menu.  Other than the quantity, the quality of food is top notch.  Overall, it was a very good experience.  This restaurant raised the bar on what you can expect for vegan Japanese food.  Definitely recommended!

moderator

I’ve been to Kajitsu twice on the advice of a friend who absolutely hates vegetarian food but loves good Japanese food. This place passed her test, and it did for me too. I brought my dad the first time, and my significant other brought me the second time. Both of these men in my life are very skeptical about eating vegetarian, and both thought it was a great experience. Who knew you could coax such flavors and textures out of vegetables. On top of that, the plating and presentation was exquisite. One thing to note, if you plan to order the sake pairing, make sure you’re ready to down a lot of alcohol. They gave extremely generous pours of very strong sake.