Minetta Tavern

Restaurants , French Greenwich Village
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(6 user reviews)
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For three decades Keith McNally’s New York restaurants have defined effortless cool, generating the sort of overnight buzz—and long-running exclusivity—institutions are made of. His hot spots have become pop culture touchstones—Odeon, Nell’s, Caf Luxembourg in the ’80s; Pravda, Balthazar, Pastis in the ’90s—delivering intangible pleasures that go far beyond food.

McNally’s Minetta Tavern, a West Village relic reborn, may be the first iconic restaurant of postmillennial recession New York. The lovingly restored dining room is as nostalgic as the '21’ Club’s—and getting in the door as difficult as penetrating Graydon Carter’s Waverly Inn. But unlike the Vanity Fair editor’s celebrity canteen, Minetta’s prices are reasonable, and the food is as much of a draw as the scene.

In recent years, Minetta Tavern—which began as a speakeasy in the 1920s and later attracted all types of luminaries—had become a museum piece, notable only for its time-capsule interior. McNally hasn’t tampered much with the setting. Black-and-white snapshots and caricatures of bygone notables still hang above brand-new, artfully scuffed red leather banquettes. The back-room murals have been buffed to their original splendor, and the place—with an unlisted number for insiders—is as buzzy now as it must have been in its heyday.

McNally, who has a sociologist’s gift for reading and responding to the cultural moment, has unveiled a power restaurant for the newly modest New York, a place where jeans and T-shirts are standard and entres rarely exceed the low $20s. His partners, Balthazar chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, have replaced the old Minetta’s middling Italian cuisine with lusty bistro fare. The big flavors, with portions to match, are made for tough times.

To start, there are expertly roasted bones oozing sea-salt-kissed marrow. A refreshing entre-size lobster salad is heavy on protein, with whole knuckles and claws lounging on crisp lettuce, string beans and tangy celery root rmoulade. A tartare trio features a couple of hits (beef with capers and mustard, lamb with sesame-oil) and one notable miss (underdressed veal). Stuffed calamari, a starter endorsed by our warm and efficient waiter—the service here is exceptionally polished—is a triumph, featuring tender squid bellies stuffed with creamy brandade and matched with bright olives, preserved lemon and roasted pepper.

The kitchen has a particularly sure hand with meaty mains. An inch-thick gorgeously blackened veal chop comes surrounded by crisp sweetbread nuggets and delicate honshimeji mushrooms. The much debated $26 Black Label burger, made with a proprietary ground-meat blend by Pat LaFrieda, is the first pricey burger I’ve tasted that’s worth every penny. Topped with caramelized onions on a buttered bun, it’s as tender and fatty as foie gras and as intensely flavored as an aged porterhouse. Brown-butter-drenched whole trout meunire is beautifully cooked but could do without the overkill crabmeat heaped on top.

Desserts, including a classic airy Grand Marnier souffl and cakes supplied by Balthazar Bakery (the delicious chocolate dacquoise stacks chocolate-hazelnut mousse between layers of crispy meringue), are as simple and homey—if home happened to be Lyon or Paris—as everything else.

The biggest problem with McNally’s latest is getting in. Without a reservation, you’re not likely to make it past the bouncer (your best bet: arrive right when it opens). The place, for now, is packed with fashion editors and big-screen stars who’ve probably got a direct line to the impresario himself.

Cheat sheet

Drink this: The classic cocktails (all $14) include a delicious riff on an old-fashioned Sazerac, made with maple cordial, rye and absinthe. On the decently priced wine list, a light Oregon gamay ($39) is a fine crossover match for both meat and seafood.

Eat this: Roasted bone marrow, tartare trio, stuffed calamari, veal chop, Black Label burger, Grand Marnier souffl.

Sit here: The prime real estate is in the back room. The right connections might land you a seat in a corner banquette, where the tablehopping is usually at its most feverish.

Conversation piece: The original Minetta Tavern was a haunt of buxom starlets, professional boxers (owner Eddie “Minetta” Sieveri was a ringside enthusiast) and literary men. Ezra Pound, e.e. cummings and Ernest Hemingway were all regulars.

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Venue name: Minetta Tavern
Contact:
Address: 113 Macdougal St
New York
10012
Cross street: at Minetta Ln
Opening hours: Mon–Thu 5:30pm–1am; Fri 5:30pm–2am; Sat 10am–4pm, 5:30pm–2am; Sun 10am–4pm, 5:30pm–1am
Transport: Subway: A, C, E, B, D, F, V to W 4th St
Price: Average main course: $24
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Average User Rating

4.6 / 5

Rating Breakdown

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LiveReviews|6
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GC
moderator

It's been a while since I came to Minetta Tavern, but I still remember the experience. This place definitely has a certain "atmosphere" that can only be equated with New York which makes dining here that much more fun. I had the chance to try to Black Label Burger which comes out without a lot of frills. The meat speaks for itself though as it's super juicy and tasty. The bone marrow is also to die for (don't eat too much though!). My only complaint is that it's difficult to get a reservation at a decent hour (I ate well after 10:30pm).

mattscheetz
tastemaker

I've never been one to use hyberboles. So when I hear a phrase like "greatest burger of all time" I'm a little skeptical.

With that said, Minetta Tavern's infamous Black Label Burger is absolutely deserving of all the praise it gets. It's one of those "essential" dishes that has to be on everyone's culinary bucket list. Vegans included. Ok maybe not, but ya know.

Not to say you should come here for the burger and the burger only though. The menu features typical steakhouse fare with a heavy French influence. Their bone marrow and Côte de Boeuf (did I spell that right?) garner almost as much attention as the burger, and for all the right reasons (although you shouldn't plan on coming here if you're particularly feeling the current slump in our economy).

Minetta has that quintessential "old school New York" vibe. White tablecloths, walls adorned with vintage celebrity charicatures, old waitstaff offering impeccable service. Superb choice for any special occasion.

The Man on the Street

This restaurant was without doubt the highlight of one amazing night out in New York. We only went because the bartender at The Old Rabbit Club opposite said it was "Brilliant". He was not wrong. Being a Saturday, and with no reservation we had to charm the Maitre D and wait about 45 minutes at the bar for a table. This was no torture. The place is buzzing and the barmaid seemed to be doing all possible to reduce our wait. 


Table found , decent bottle of red and roasted Bone Marrow ordered. What happened next was a delicious meat feast. Beautifully presented and cooked to perfection. We got chatting with other diners and everyone was having a great time and loving the food.


Its not cheap but oh what a good meal. We sensed it was a bit of a special occasion destination. For us it made our Saturday night a special occasion.

Adam V
tastemaker

Really great spot (nestled in a street corner), cool location (right near NYU, lots of bars, and comedy clubs nearby), great food (see burger), competent staff (very quick, very knowledgeable, and good attitude) and fitting décor (plush couches, intimate table settings, and good use of space, though it's a bit cramped). It's a mixed bistro experience, ranging from the back room table service of a fine dining establishment, paired with an upscale bar. Worth the visit.

Peter D

Secret wine list amazing although prepare to pay top dollar. Highly recommended the burger, beet salad, and an incredible veal chop. Oysters weren't good enough unfortunately. French fries 10/10. Great chocolate soufflé