Moran’s Chelsea (CLOSED)

After a pint at the handsome hand-carved cherry-wood bar (where longshoremen once rested their elbows), patrons can sample chef Chuck Miller’s so-called lighter fare, which includes a thick grilled pork chop and a ten-ounce chopped tenderloin steak. Bigger eaters will want the New York strip, a lean, dry-aged 16-ouncer. The outright ravenous should request the surf and turf (it’s not on the menu)—a brawny Australian cold-water lobster tail paired with a tender filet mignon. Desserts are “hokey,” Miller says, meaning basic cakes, pies and ice cream.