Octopus pastrami at Batard
Porcelet at Clement
Crab flan at Beautique
Chorizo-crusted scallops at Tessa
Pistols on horseback at Cull & Pistol
Lamb porterhouse at Barchetta
At Bâtard (239 West Broadway at White St, 212-219-2777), the swank Corton replacement from Drew Nieporent and John Winterman, chef-partner Markus Glocker (Gordon Ramsay at the London) offers two takes on the meat-and-fish model: mild Kusshi oysters crowned with fried pigs’ tails, laid on a peppercorn-studded salt bed; and a standout pastrami-spiced octopus number, winkingly served with grainy Pommery mustard, shredded ham hock and toasty tears of rye bread to evoke the deli-case standard ($55 for two courses, $65 for three, $75 for four).
Poulpe meets pig in the Peninsula Hotel’s dining room, Clement (700 Fifth Ave at 55th St, 212-903-3918), where Asiate alum Brandon Kida winds a charred octopus tentacle around succulent slabs of crackle-skinned porcelet ($32), served with dashi-stock-cooked white beans and a tide pool of chimichurri sauce. Hearty cubes of pork belly also stud a seafood stunner at French-accented Beautique(8 W 58th St between Fifth and Sixth Aves, 212-753-1200), lending crispy contrast to chef Craig Hopson’s bowl of rich malt-caramel-topped crab flan ($18), while his seared scallops come shellacked with Pollock dollops of foamy foie-gras sabayon and diablo sauce ($32).
For their own bivalve renditions, chef Cedric Tovar (Rosemary’s, Bobo) bookends tender scallops with a robust chorizo crust ($28) at Mediterranean tavern Tessa(349 Amsterdam Ave between 76th and 77th Sts, 212-390-1974), and at Chelsea Market seafoodery Cull & Pistol(75 Ninth Ave at 15th St, 646-568-1223) Jean-Georges vet Dave Seigal serves a play on angels on horseback, wrapping Chesapeake fried oysters with salty Surryano ham and serving the bundle atop parsley-and-chive crepes with smoked aioli ($12).
And “fish whisperer” Dave Pasternack makes good on his nickname with the rustic lamb porterhouse at sea-to-table Chelsea trattoria Barchetta(461 W 23rd St between Ninth and Tenth Aves, 212-255-7400), lacquering the grilled meat with briny, brawny Sicilian anchovy vinaigrette.
Sorry, Red Lobster—this is how you surf and turf.
Fortunately, Toshio Suzuki wasn’t gone for long. A year after shuttering his 30-year-old Sushi Zen in midtown, the New York sushi icon returns with a new raw-fish restaurant divided into three concepts. There’s a 10-seat omakase counter, where Suzuki prepares a seven-course dinner that includes seasonal dishes like steamed monkfish liver and horsehair crab for $250 per person. Three Pillars, an Imperial-style cocktail bar and lounge, sees cocktail “alchemist” Alex Ott pouring Japanese drinks with “healing” powers, like the gin-and-yuzu Seishun No Izumi, which is said to act as an age reverser and PMS remedy. The third prong, opening in April, is the chef’s namesake kaiseki restaurant, which seats 56 people and is helmed by Sushi Zen alum Takashi Yamamoto, who was formerly a private chef for the Japanese consulate.
Venue says: “As an appreciation to TimeOut readers, mention "TimeOut" in the comments of your reservation to get a complimentary round of drinks.”
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