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[title]If you’re like many Manhattan and Brooklynites, you’re probably only vaguely familiar with the M train—and it’s possible that you’ve never heard of Ridgewood. The nabe is a family-oriented place where you’ll see kids playing ball on the sidewalk while their parents gossip on front stoops.
Fresh Pond Road, in particular, is a lively commercial strip lined with Polish restaurants and bodegas. Our undying love of pierogi led us to Starowiejski Delicatessen (66-51 Fresh Pond Rd between Madison and Woodbine Sts, 718-456-1558), what Poles or Polish-Americans would call a delikatesy—just the type of place you’d find in Krakow. The sunny space is well stocked with stuffed cabbage, plum juice and Wawel chocolate, and if you stop by on a weekend, you might meet cashier Klaudia Olchowicz, a high-school student who cheerfully helps us decipher the Polish-only signs (they love the letter Z). Olchowicz proudly touts her deli’s offerings: “Nobody has as much food as we have!”
Paradise Aquarium
After rolling out of Starowiejski like an overstuffed kielbasa, we head to Paradise Aquarium (66-16 Fresh Pond Rd at Palmetto St; 718-366-6921, paradiseaquarium.com), a rare family-owned shop in a market dominated by PETCOs. It’s the kind of place where you can consult directly with the owner or, according to a handwritten sign in the storefront, get a “free rabbit with purchase of a cage”—a magic trick we’re tempted to buy into. The shop has been a fixture on Fresh Pond Road since 1947 and has been in owner Gary Petznick’s family since the 1960s. He has kept business thriving with a personal touch, and his store is a favorite among kids stopping in to see Nemo look-alikes or dozens of other varieties of fish, from the simple neon tetras (five for $5) to the fancy rainbow wrasse ($200). A native of nearby Middle Village, Petznick has seen lots of changes in the area. He laments the closing of local businesses, including a roller rink.
Mafera Park
Thankfully, there’s still a place for Petznick to practice his crossovers—at Mafera Park (65th Pl at Catalpa Ave, nycgovparks.org), just a ten-minute walk away. The 5.4-acre space, which features a roller hockey rink, basketball courts and baseball fields, is a prime people-watching spot. Here you’ll find teenage skateboarders practicing ollies off wire trash cans and rowdy spectators cheering on neighborhood baseball games.
All that exercise works up our appetite, so we decide to try Olchowicz’s recommended Krolewskie Jadlo (66-21 Fresh Pond Rd at Palmetto St, 718-366-6226), a cavernous restaurant decked out in medieval decor, with coats of arms and portraits of Polish kings adorning the walls. The name’s English translation is “king’s feast,” and the menu boasts royal Polish offerings, including grilled sausage, pierogi and pickle soup.
Glenlo Tavern
For a meal-capping drink, waitress Kasia Kowalczvk suggests the nearby Retro Café (64-19 Fresh Pond Rd at Grove St, no phone), which looks promising but is closed on Sunday afternoons. Instead, we cross the street to Glenlo Tavern (64-18 Fresh Pond Rd at Grove St, 718-418-0661), the lone Irish bar within this Polish enclave.
“Wherever you are in the world, everyone is looking for an Irish bar,” says co-owner Aidan Quinn (yes, like the actor). This particular pub, though, has a definite Eastern European tilt. Sure, Glenlo serves Guinness and Jäger bombs, but it also offers Czech pilsner and Polish Lech ($4.50 for a draft pint, $3.50 for a bottle). It’s good for watching NFL events, but it’s also a favorite for viewing soccer matches; rabid fans pack the bar during important games. Whether or not you’re ready to rip off your shirt after a point, the Glenlo is the perfect place to end a tour of a Euro-tinged ’hood that has yet to fully assimilate—though maybe that’s its goaaaaaaaal!
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