The Palácio das Cardosas was meant as a monastery for the Loios friars, but (to cut a long story short) ended up being converted into a sumptuous palace by local bigwig Manuel Cardoso da Silva, some time in the nineteenth century. So grand an institution is the InterContinental that it feels as though it’s been welcoming guests for ages, so it’s a surprise to learn it was only converted into a hotel in 2011 – though that does explain why everything feels fresh as a daisy, with nothing dated or faded. And although the vibe is mostly rich-people chic, a few details – arty photography on the walls, Byredo toiletries in the rooms – lend a hint of curatorial cool. My room (a Two Storey Suite) was all white wood panelling and dove-grey linen furniture, with plenty of marble and chrome in the bathroom. The Astória restaurant is in a modern extension with a glass roof, dangling houseplants and an outdoor terrace (to be used only if you’re lucky with the Atlantic city’s changeable weather). Here you’ll find the real breakfast of champions: an impressive buffet spanning at least three groaning tables, including all the key components of a fry-up in a smart row of orange casserole pots.
Time Out tip: Raining outside? Feeling footsore after tackling all those hills? No worries: head to the hotel’s wood-panelled, library-esque Cardosas bar for a martini or three – and live fado singers on Thursdays.