Straddling the divide between Prague 2 and Prague 3 (Prague 10 and a little bit of Prague 1 too, but let’s not muddy the waters too much), Vinohrady has long been the most desirable address in the city for locals and expats alike. The district grew out of the old royal vineyards (hence the name), and the wine still flows today in the neighbourhood’s abundance of classy bars and restaurants. Beer remains king (this is still Prague, after all), but the atmosphere in Vinohrady is a little more refined than in neighbouring Žižkov and Vršovice.
Vinohrady is all green spaces, theatre history and elegant churches, often within spitting distance of each other. The neighbourhood also happens to be home to the longest escalator in the European Union, if you’re into that sort of thing, but we’ll stick to the charming cafes and vibrant nightlife. These are the best things to do in Vinohrady, Prague.
What to do
If the sun’s shining, the lawns of Riegrovy Sady are sure to be packed with picnickers, partiers and families of all ages, all admiring (or awaiting) the sunset view over the city. This sprawling park also boasts one of the city’s most popular beer gardens, which is packed throughout the long summer months. Jiřího z Poděbrad Square boasts one of Prague's most iconic churches, the Art Nouveau Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord, which boasts the largest clock-face in Czechia.
Where to eat
Cover your table in tapas at Kofein. Indulge in high-end vegetarian at Etnosvět or casual at Radost FX. Taste the delicious influence of Prague’s Vietnamese community at Pho Vietnam Tuan & Lan, French cuisine at Marthy’s Kitchen, or comfort food at Bad Jeff’s BBQ. Finally, Mikrofarma bistro and deli (found on Jiřího z Poděbrad square) is a must for carnivores, with some of the best sandwiches going. When it comes to food, Vinohrady’s all about variety.
What to drink
Náměstí Míru (technically ‘Peace Square’, though nobody calls it that) is surrounded by the very best purveyors of Czech beer culture. Choose from the lively beer hall atmosphere of the Prague Beer Museum or Prague's best Irish pub in Beckett's. Nubeerbar is a must for craft beer lovers, while basement bar Ossegg eschews flashy gimmicks in favour of fantastic beer and equally good food.
Where to stay
Prague has plenty of options that offer much in price but little in quality, so somewhere like Hotel Taurus is a breath of fresh air. A 4-star hotel at knockdown prices with friendly staff and a tremendous location. What's not to like?
If you only do one thing...
Stop by Náměstí Míru to admire the neo-Gothic Church of St Ludmila, which hosts some of the city’s favourite Christmas and Easter markets. Well, either that or a sandwich from Mikrofarma...