While some look to the future for ideas, others dig into the archives for inspiration. One such person is chef Damian D’Silva, a judge on the current season of MasterChef Singapore and a long-time custodian of local heritage cuisine.
At his restaurant Kin, the menu is a reminder of past recipes; time-honoured Singaporean dishes that have been cooked for generations – by families of Chinese, Eurasian, Indian, Malay, and Peranakan descent. And now, two years after Kin first opened, Damian once again digs deep(er) into the past to present a new line-up of traditional, forgotten recipes.
Memories of his grandfather’s cooking inspired creations that include cuttlefish kangkong ($20), which comes served with wedges of pineapples to lend sweetness; and the king prawn with dry sambal ($48) where dried chillies are pounded into a piquant paste that builds up in heat in the mouth. Also worth an order: the Daging Sambal Hijau ($42). Tender beef slices are first marinated overnight with cumin, coriander, and fennel, then tossed in a sambal paste that swaps the usual fiery red variant for a brighter, milder green chilli.
Recipes from family friends also left an impression on Damian growing up. He recreates an Ayam Kalasan ($38), a spice-scented chicken that is twice-cooked: first, simmered in coconut water till the flavour is absorbed; then deep-fried. Don’t forget to accompany sauce – the leftover simmering liquid is then used to temper fiery sambal, creating a moreish sweet-spicy dip. Nangka Rendang ($28) is a lesser-seen, vegetarian version of the curry. Young jackfruit comes slow-braised with coriander, cumin, garam masala, and other spices for over seven hours, taking on the flavour of the aromatic gravy while providing substantial satiety.
The dinner table might be filled with plates by now, but be sure to make room for the marquee item: Pork Knuckle Debal ($68). While the dish is typically served during festive periods using leftover meats from Christmas, the iteration here comes lavished with smoked pork knuckle and roasted pork instead. Servings of rice are a must to go with the slick curry. Then, wash the heavy meal down with refreshing libations from the new drinks selection. Highlights include the Mugicha Highball ($18) with roasted barley kombucha and Japanese whiskey; and the Chilli Padi ($18), a bold concoction made with calamansi, green, and red chillies.
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Original review by Nicole Marie-Ng on November 19 2019
When Straits Clan first launched, the restaurant in its lobby lounge didn’t have much of an identity. It was a place where its members could gather for a meal – either in the main dining room or one of its hidden private chambers – and call it a day. But now, there’s a reason for members of the public to visit. And it comes in the form the towering granddaddy of Singapore’s heritage cuisine: chef Damian D’Silva.
Prior to joining Straits Clan, Damian focused on Peranakan and Eurasian dishes of his past at Folklore. But of course, Singaporean heritage cuisine runs deeper, wider and longer than that. At Kin, he aims to go beyond, showcasing traditional local recipes that might otherwise fade from view. The menu is split into small plates, large plates, vegetable and rice, sambal and pickles, and finally dessert – and in true zi char tradition, it’s best if you order a bunch of dishes to share among your table.
The Heritage Salsa ($15) is a tart salad from the small plates selection, which combines local fruits and herbs like green mango, pineapple, winged bean and torch ginger to refresh the palate between bites of Gulai ($38), hunks of beef cheek in a spiced coconut gravy, Babi Masak Assam ($38), pork belly and rib in a tangy tamarind gravy and sambal buah keluak ($24) with free-flowing turmeric rice ($4). But the underrated star of the meal is the Chap Chye Masak Rempah Titek ($30), a mildly spiced vegetable stew with an intense seafood broth base – just serve us this and a plate of white rice and we’ll be perfectly content.
