For an enthralling yakitori experience, journey along the stone-laid path and into this 12-seater modern Japanese restaurant along Tras Street. Park yourself at the butterscotch marble counter and marvel at the talented chefs – Hokkaido native Takeshi Nakayama and Singaporean chefs Nicholas Lee and Aleka Yaw – working around the three-tiered grill that was custom-made in Osaka.
Prior to the opening, the trio had spent several months in Osaka under the tutelage of a reputable yakitori maestro. But don’t come expecting a traditional yakitori showcase. While Shin Terroir grounds itself in tradition, it isn’t afraid to introduce a touch of inventiveness in each dish served on the 15-course menu ($198).
To start, comforting appetisers present themselves in familiar form and flavour: silky chawanmushi prepared with ceremonial-grade Rausu kombu, bejewelled with snow crab and uni; yaki onigiri stuffed with negitoro and brushed with chicken fat; and grilled aged kinmedai and braised daikon finished with kombu dashi broth.
A series of yakitori then ensues where choice cuts are expertly grilled with aplomb. Nakayama and Lee insist on using Kishu bincho, charcoal made from a type of Japanese oak hailing from Wakayama, best known for its ability to reach searing temperatures and retain heat. This promises an epic sizzle which crispens up the skin without drying out the moisture in the meat.
The signature Mille Feuille certainly holds true to the claims. This intricately layered creation sees tender gems of chicken gizzards and crunchy chives blanketed under perfectly blistered chicken skin. Reba (liver) is tailored to your preferred doneness, though we advise you to go with the chef’s recommendation. The iron-rich treat is inventively paired with a spiced cookie crumble for a sweet and savoury twist.
Other parts of the chicken such as the tebasaki (wing) and kawa (skin) are simply grilled with lemon, pepper and salt, for it is meant to be accompanied by the yuzu kosho (yuzu pepper paste) and shichimi (spice mix). The arrival of the palate-cleansing yuzu granita signals a shift to heartier mains.
The collagen-rich Hakata-style ramen, slow-cooked using chicken bones and offcuts, takes the definition of comfort to another level. The prized Miyazaki A4 Wagyu, despite its faultless treatment, leaves much to be desired when paired with an uninspiring hollandaise. For dessert, the chewy kaya mochi, stratified with hojicha and azuki, does just enough to round off the meal on a high note.
The modern grill also stocks a handsome list of sake and wines sourced exclusively from Champagne and Burgundy. These bottles are mostly sourced from well-regarded producers and small-batch grower champagne. And if you choose to stick around for another glass after a meal, the cosy private lounge is where to be.
