You could spend half a day at Siriraj and still feel like you've missed something. Technically, this is a complex of seven museums spread across the grounds of Thailand's oldest hospital. For this list, though, three do the heavy lifting: the Ellis Pathological Museum, the Congdon Anatomical Museum and the Songkran Niyomsan Forensic Medicine Museum. Together, they make for one very sobering afternoon.
Start with the Ellis Pathological Museum, the gentlest way in. Named after an American professor who founded it as a teaching collection, it displays specimens documenting major causes of death in Thailand, cancerous organs and diseased hearts to congenital abnormalities. The first room contains babies with genetic disorders preserved in formaldehyde. They look, unnervingly, almost unreal, which may be the only reason most visitors manage to stay.
The Congdon Anatomical Museum, on the third floor of the Anatomy Building, is for anyone who wants to understand what the human body actually looks like when systematically taken apart. It holds full dissections of the peripheral nervous and arterial systems, prepared over years and displayed in glass cases, alongside conjoined twins preserved in alcohol, hydrocephalic specimens and foetal remains. It is the laboratory of Professor Congdon, credited as the father of modern anatomy in Thailand, and it feels almost untouched by time: creaking floors, faded portraits and cabinets that seem not to havet been unlocked in decades.
The Songkran Niyomsan Forensic Medicine Museum is the one most people come for, and it earns the attention. Expect skulls with bullet holes, body parts from crime scenes and wax reconstructions of murder cases. For years, the centrepiece was the mummified body of Si Ouey Sae Ung, a Sino-Thai man executed in 1959 after being convicted of murdering and cannibalising several children in the 1950s. His name became a Thai bogeyman, the kind parents still invoke to frighten misbehaving children. But the story is darker and more complicated than the legend. Questions grew over the fairness of his trial: he was an illiterate Chinese immigrant with limited Thai language skills, and serious doubts later arose over whether his confession had been coerced. In 2020, after years of advocacy by human rights campaigners, his body was finally removed from display and cremated according to Buddhist rites. The plaque that had called him a cannibal for half a century came down with him.
The exhibit space where he stood is still there. So is everything else.
2 Wang Lang Rd, Bangkok Noi, Siriraj Hospital complex. Open Wednesday-Monday, 10am-5pm; closed Tuesdays and public holidays. Entry is B200 for non-Thais, B40 for Thais.
















