Have you ever asked yourself what you’d be doing at 81? Most people would probably say retiring or spending time with their grandchildren. But not Supinya ‘Jay Fai’ Junsuta as she’s still going strong and shows no signs of stopping (not this year).
Known as the Queen of Street Food, Jay Fai is a true icon in Thailand’s food scene. She shot to global fame after earning a Michelin Star and ever since, foodies from all over the world have been lining up just to try her crab omelette.
However, beyond her charcoal-fired woks and signature ski goggles, her life is much more interesting than we realise. With a past filled with struggles and victories over life’s adversities, she has managed through her entrepreneurial vision to build her business and provide for her family. And to understand how she came to be in this position, the culinary documentary, Jay Fai: Fire & Soul is the one to watch.
Directed by Arlei Lima, the film first came out in 2021 and spent the next few years making its way through international film festivals. Now, it’s finally come home. On May 19, the Thai premiere of the documentary took place at Woof Pack art space – right in time with its worldwide release on the UTOPICFOOD! YouTube channel.
Even if you’re not her fan, you’ve probably noticed she rarely opens up about her life and that’s exactly what makes this film so special. With questions gently asked by her daughter, she shares her story in her own words, with a level of openness we rarely see. Her path has been anything but easy or conventional. She left school after fourth grade, never received formal culinary training and even worked as a tailor at one point. Yet, she credits much of her entrepreneurial mindset to the Chinese historical novel Three Kingdoms, saying:
‘I was only in second grade when I started reading Three Kingdoms. I think politicians are witless. If you’re a politician and you’ve read Three Kingdoms, I guarantee no one can mess with you. I tell everyone that. Later on, I only got halfway through the book. I didn’t have time to finish. I had to work. Even now, Three Kingdoms is still with me.’
If you’re a politician and you’ve read Three Kingdoms, I guarantee no one can mess with you.
Even though she’s an icon, there’s no denying that many people still perceive her food as unusually expensive. But if you ask her about it, she won’t dodge the question. She responds with the same honesty and confidence that’s guided her through life.
‘Thais often say, ‘Aren’t you afraid of selling expensive food?’ I say, ‘I’m not afraid. What is there to be afraid of? I have prices listed. You can choose what to eat. If you think it’s too expensive, you can eat something else.’ I don’t chase anyone away. I want you to eat here. We were born human, so let’s give it a try. Why do some restaurants charge more while others are cheaper? They’re not the same.’
I’m not afraid. What is there to be afraid of? I have prices listed. You can choose what to eat. If you think it’s too expensive, you can eat something else.
And regarding the rumour last year that she was thinking of retiring – turns out, it did cross her mind, but not just yet. The 81-year-old chef reflects:
‘Yes, the thought has come up. But I feel like I need to get through this year first. I’ve already accepted a lot of bookings, even into the middle of next year. As for stopping, I could whenever I choose. But the team at the restaurant has asked me to keep going a bit longer.’
Having landed in Thailand four years after its initial release, you might wonder if this film was made mainly for an international audience. What about local viewers? What can they take away from it? On this, producer Mason Florence shares:
‘As we worked towards the target audience, we realised that Jay Fai’s fanbase and her guests come from every corner of the world. But the one we didn’t want to miss is the Thai audience. We hope more people here get to see the film and, importantly, understand the story in Thai. Along with the language, the cultural concepts come through naturally, making the film borderless. It’s really for everyone and even those who haven’t had the chance to visit Thailand or eat at Jay Fai’s, but can experience it vicariously through the film.’
But the one we didn’t want to miss is the Thai audience. We hope more people here get to see the film and, importantly, understand the story in Thai.
Overall, this documentary knows no borders. Even if you’re not local, you’ll be moved by the life and soul of Jay Fai. Her journey of passion and perseverance shines through every frame. But don’t let us spoil how good this film is, you can catch it for free here.