CHAR

Char makes a dramatic first impression before food even lands on the table. Set on the 25th floor of Hotel Indigo, the room opens to a sweeping vista of Bangkok’s signature steel and glass, retro-futuristic skyline. Tables are spaced generously, service moves with confidence and the open grill gives the place a warm, smoky heartbeat.

The menu is concise and very much focused on what fire does best. Beef tartare à la Parisienne arrives silky with confit egg yolk and classic garnishes and clean, no-frills flavours. Scallop carpaccio with beetroot and green apple gel leans bright and sharp, with pistachio adding the perfect amount of crunch. For something warmer, grilled octopus with bell pepper hummus foam has a satisfying char and a soft, yielding centre, while the crispy duck and watermelon salad cuts richness with hoisin sauce and toasted cashews.

From the grill, steak frites cafe de Paris is an easy crowd pleaser – Austrian wagyu striploin, properly rested with golden fries and a fresh, homemade ketchup. Kurobuta pork chop with mustard and rosemary jus keeps things hearty and in the comfort-zone without heaviness and Australian lamb double cutlets showcase careful timing and flawless seasoning. Steamed cod with onion cream and orange condiment is a subtle plate – delicate and thoughtful after the bigger flavours.

Desserts stay classic – chocolate molten cake with vanilla ice cream and salted caramel does exactly what you want it to do and does it well. The wine list isn’t vast but covers enough ground for most moods. Grab one of the window tables if you can for a little extra privacy. It’s an ideal spot for dates and intimate celebrations.

CHAR Restaurant. Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road, 25th floor, Pathum Wan. 5pm-10:30pm