Time Out says
A backyard farm-slash-fine-dining experience right in the heart of Sukhumvit
The term “farm-to-table” is in danger of being overused and becoming just another meaningless foodie buzzword. A new restaurant on Sukhumvit tries to give new meaning to the culinary concept by using produce grown organically in its own backyard.
Pronounced “ha-o-ma,” the establishment is the brainchild of Deepanker Khosla, the former chef of fancy Indian eatery Charcoal and founder of health-conscious food delivery service Nutrichef, and Tarun Bhatia who was named Southeast Asia’s winner of San Pellegrino’s Young Chef 2016. At Haoma, the chefs take home-grown produce to the next level by installing an urban organic farm right in the restaurant’s backyard. Greens are grown using either certified organic soil or the aquaponics method. In the latter, water is enriched with nutrients from the waste of fish and is circulated throughout the farm. The duo has also partnered with a few other organic farms to supply ingredients they cannot grow in-house. You’ll get a brief tour of the impressive organic farm upon arrival and can decide to take a seat within the farm or the dimly-lit, wood-heavy room.
The chefs harvest vegetables and produce from the backyard and present them as boldly flavored, visually arresting, color-splashed dishes worthy of a gallery exhibition. The heirloom tomato salad, for example, combines five kinds of tomato, with creamy burrata and gimmicky bubbles made from tomato consommé (B390), while the delicious mix of root vegetables (B370) are presented in a manner reminiscent of the phallic-centric works of Yayoi Kusama. Fruits like mandarin, pomegranate and dates are converted into jellies that help elevate a seared duck dish (B630). Chironji, an Afghan nut, is given a new life as panna cotta — its creaminess further enhanced by the natural sweetness of black stone flower (B330).
The kitchen’s produce-driven concept also extends to the bar where the zero-waste philosophy isn’t taken for granted either—parts of the produce discarded by the kitchen are incorporated into the cocktails. One drink infuses vodka with strawberry stems to create a sweet and sour drink that’s garnished with strawberry leather (B350), while another washes rum in a coconut shell before the liquor is blended with a coconut and coffee syrup (B380).