Francesco Lenzi, the culinary genius behind the upscale Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen, and the former chef of Medici at Hotel Muse, abandons fine-dining efforts at his new eatery, opting instead for more a casual space that that spotlights traditional Italian fare.
Nonna Nella by Lenzi is a tribute to the chef’s Sicilian-born grandmother Sebastianella Tusa, whose nickname is, apparently, Nella (nonna means “grandmother” in Italian). The venue exudes the simple charm of a neighborhood restaurant, merging a bistro feel with a delicatessen offering. The front showcases fresh produce, including ham and cheese, most of which are produced by Lenzi’s family in Tuscany. Inside, a spacious room is divided into a wood-heavy dining area and a modern open kitchen equipped with Italianimported kitchen appliances.
The menu is a testament to Lenzi’s close attention to produce; the front page lists artisanal products from his family’s farm such as bazzetta (cured pork leg, B250), truffle-infused cured pork sausage (B350) and bazzon cotto (cooked ham, B400). The menu also features items, such as fish ham, which are imported from other artisanal farms in Italy. We opted for the smoked sturgeon, which is lean and flavorsome, served with grilled zucchini and feta cheese, and drizzled with mustard dressing.
Benefitting from an in-house pasta machine, Nonna Nella is able to produce fresh egg-based pasta that go into dishes like spaghettoni all'amatriciana (B400), spaghetti’s fatter brother topped with mild tomato sauce, Pecorino Romano, onion and guanciale. The pizza here has a light and crispy crust, thanks to a dough that’s left to rise for 72 hours. We recommend the Nonna Nella (B520), which comes heaped with mozzarella, pancetta, Tuscan blood sausage, garlic and chili.
For dessert, options include Lenzi’s signature tiramisu (B220) and a mildly sweet panna cotta (B200) topped with your choice of fruit jam. Overall, Nonna Nella by Lenzi is that fun, casual and Italian-done-right kind of eatery that upmarket Wireless Road has always needed. You will see us coming back for more of Lenzi’s gourmet delights.
