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The restaurant, which is named for a road that runs through France and Italy, straddles the cuisine of the two countries. “The concept is roughly based on our experiences traveling through those areas,” Merges told us. “We’ve been traveling off and on through those areas since, I would say, 1995 or so. I’ve been maybe six to eight times.” That inspiration results in a menu that’s available at both the bar, which is warm and cozy and has a casual neighborhood atmosphere, and the main dining room, where colorful tapestries hang on the white brick walls, Francoise Hardy plays and the tables are mostly filled with dates.