While Croatia's wines are among the best in the world, bland fizzy lager has been as much a part of the Croatian holiday experience as rocky beaches and chirping crickets. Occasionally picky connoisseurs might have been lucky enough to stumble upon a bar offering a more sophisticated selection. One of the first independents and an early adopter of additive-free beer, Medvedgrad have been brewing for over 20 years. Try them on Tkalčićeva, a winding stretch of bars in the centre of Zagreb. This capacious bar offered many visitors their first taste of Croatian craft beer. Stand-outs are the Fakin IPA, dark, reddish lager Grička Vještica, a newer, fruity, bitter lager called Baltazar, a wheat beer plus special seasonal options.