Tightly-clustered food-stalls snake along Ban Jelačić and European Square: this is where Zagreb’s best restaurants flex their culinary muscles, a sort of who’s who of the city’s gastro scene. Zagreb's best restaurants all have a presence here, with winter cocktails and hot toddies to warm your cheeks also thrown into the mix.
For more clichéd seasonal pleasures like chestnuts and mulled wine, make a beeline for Zrinjevac. Advent here consists of market stalls selling warm food, with a particular emphasis on traditional Croatian dishes - here you can try goulash, sour cabbage rolls, smoked leg of pig or braised cabbage with home-made pasta, and a sweet strukli for dessert. They also sell freshly made fritule: tasty deep-fried dough balls sprinkled with icing sugar.