November 2009
The irony about KL-ites adoration of seafood is that, by and large, the quality of the fish and crustaceans on offer is not actually that high. That’s not the fault of any of the restaurants, I should point out. It’s merely a factor of being far from the ocean. Getting the catch to your plate takes longer, hence the freshness and taste loses some of its sparkle.
There are exceptions, however. And nowhere moreso than Fisherman’s Cove. The city’s high-end offering to the seafood scene manages to overcome the obstacles of KL’s distance from the sea in fine style.
The setting is aptly reminiscent of life on the waves, designed as it is in the style of an old South East Asian junker ship. Somehow this peculiar sight more than adequately sits inside the basement of the exclusive Starhill Gallery without excessive incongruousness.
It is the food, though, that truly sets Fisherman’s Cove apart. The chefs have a lot to live up to match their restaurant’s namesake and founding icon at Pangkor Laut Resort. However, they do a superb job, thanks to a team of highly skilled fish specialists who appreciate the delicacy and preciseness with which seafood should be handled, stored and served.
Your choices can range from the over-elaborate to the plain and simple, with my preference being the latter. With fresh fish, there is no reason to drown it in marinade or spice it beyond recognition. Deliver it with a twist of lemon or a smidgeon of pepper and you’re onto a winner. A philosophy seemingly shared by the majority of the menu at Fisherman’s Cove. Take the grouper (please, take the grouper). With just a dash of lemon, rock salt and the most simple of seasonings, it must rank among the best (and, best value when you consider it’s quality) fish serves in the city. Other highly honourable mentions go to the honeyed sea bass and the spicy barramundi. Again, simple, impressive meals, packed with taste.
The choice of wine is far-reaching enough that there is a great accompaniment for each selection, although it is advisable to ask for advice to get the most out of your pairing.
The only question I have had leaving Fisherman’s Cove is whether there is in fact anywhere in KL that does seafood better. Maybe the Time Out KL Food Awards (revealed next month) will tell us, but in my humble opinion, if there is somewhere better … I’m yet to find it. Matt Bellotti
Awards
Fisherman's Cove was shortlisted in the Best Seafood Restaurant category of the Time Out KL Food Awards 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012. Our food awards are 100% voted for by the people of KL. This way, we guarantee that popularity and consistent performance is rewarded.