I arrived at Mama Shelter from the beach – sand in my shoes, covered in sun lotion, hair stringy with seawater – and found myself sharing the lift with an impeccably dressed group ascending to the rooftop for sundowners. Not that anyone gave a damn, because anything goes here, the only Portuguese outpost of Mama Shelter’s brand of playful boutique hotels strung across the continent.
It’s as cheeky as its sister venues (sex toys for sale in the lobby, superhero masks on the lampshades, a pretty extensive adult film menu on the telly), but with little Portuguese flourishes to remind you where you are – the forest green tile-clad exterior, a Remodelado tram mural in the lift, ocean-wave carpets in the bedrooms, marine-themed decor in the restaurant and locally-made arts and crafts dotted all over the place.
But, let’s be real, you’re not about to forget you’re slap-bang in the heart of Lisbon. Mama Shelter is just off the lively central thoroughfare of Avenida da Liberdade, and in the other direction you have the boutiques and bars of Príncipe Real – honestly, take any route from the hotel’s corner doors and you’re in for a great walk. Before (or after) you go, though, stick around for a cocktail on Mama’s rooftop or a meal at Mama’s restaurant. Much like its outposts in London, Bordeaux and elsewhere, Mama Shelter is a neighbourhood attraction in its own right.
If the queue’s anything to go by, the rooftop is the place to be at sunset, with an unbeatable view over the city’s iconic red rooftops and glittering Tagus river. The downstairs restaurant is perpetually busy (you need to book a table well in advance here), where pizza and Portuguese classics are paired with live music and DJ sets. And between the restaurant and the rooftop are the rooms – 130 of them to be exact. Ours was compact and comfortable, with much of the space taken up by an enormous bed, overlooked by an enormous TV. What more could you need?
Neighbourhood
Fittingly, Mama Shelter is in the fashionable Príncipe Real district, where you’re spoiled for choice for art galleries, concept stores, great restaurants and gay bars – not to mention some of the best views in the city.
Nearby
- Jardim Botânico. A peaceful pocket of land filled with tropical plants, shaded pathways and quirky sculptures, perfect for an afternoon stroll.
- Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This manicured terrace offers one of the best vantage points in Lisbon. Stop for a beer at its namesake bar before a night out in Bairro Alto.
- Principe Real Garden. There’s a cute pop-up market along one edge of this city garden selling all sorts of bric-a-brac, including tiny weeny vintage perfume bottles.
Time Out tip
Order the focaccia. Trust me.
